[Closed] anyone running 1x9..............??

Yes - just recently, and I'm interested in seeing what other folk do! Have bought a BBG bashguard from the US, and waiting for a Deda Dog Fang to arrive - other folk suggest an [url= http://www.billys.co.uk/english/group.php?prod=chng-js ]N-Gear Jump Stop[/url].

I run 1x9, with a home-made chainguide and a bashring. You can just about see the chaindevice on this photo:

It's an upside-down L shape if you look from the front. Attatched onto a lock bracket as it was the lightest I could find in the spares box.

Been running it round the peaks and sheffield area for about 3 months now, and not dropped the chain once.

Both me and Mrs TJ run 1x9 on our commuters - with unramped chainrings chains do not fall off. Shorten the chain right down so the tension is as high as possible.

The chains also stays on hopping up and down kerbs and the like - but thats as rough as I have tried it.

I see no point in running 1x9 if you need something to keep the cahin on - you might as well have a granny ring and a mech

i have just taken a grinder to a front mech leaving just the back plate.
then filled the gap with a little bit of tape rolled up so the plate is 1mm from the chain when it is in the big sprocket, seems ding dong.. 8)

I see no point in running 1x9 if you need something to keep the cahin on - you might as well have a granny ring and a mech

I'm running it as it makes the bike quieter, about a pound lighter, takes a load less cleaning/lubing and is 2 less things to go wrong.

i'm running it cos i want to.
just like you want to ride a tandem teej........... 8)

Yep - I use a [url= http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=745 ]DMR hinged clamp[/url], DMR, MRP or Blackspire roller (think I've tried them all over the years), cut down spacer from the middle of an old DCD (remember them?) and bolt (small enough to fit the hinged clamp and long enough to go through the roller) from ebay - can't remember the size but I have loads of spares if anyone needs one. Does the job on all but the rootiest/rockiest d/hs though as the bolt is quite thin it does bend easily.

Older pic of a filed down version on my Stinky but you get the idea . . .

[img] http://images.fotopic.net/?iid=y429q7&=1&nostamp=1&quality=70 [/img]

Yes, with no front mech, bash ring, jumpstop, chain device or anything else

Using a Thorn unramped (from SJS cycles) chainring, with the chain shortened (by the usual biggest rings + pair of links) and it hasn't dropped the chain once. The chainring is fat enough that you can use triple chainring bolts/nuts and not have to bother with narrow ones or spacers

Funny enough I just put gears on my hardtail today but there were no stops for a front mech. Will probably stick a chain device on. I think anything that gets used seriously off road will wang the chain about so much it's bound to come off, and you can only shorten it so much.

I tried running 1x9 on my heckler when I first built it up, the chain came off all the time, and 2 failed attempts at chainguides later I caved in and bought a triple. So much for simplicity. Annoyingly you lose the chain more when you're descending because it will be wanging about more anyway, and because you'll be on the smallest sprocket meaning it's under less tension.

paule - Member

I see no point in running 1x9 if you need something to keep the cahin on - you might as well have a granny ring and a mech

I'm running it as it makes the bike quieter, about a pound lighter, takes a load less cleaning/lubing and is 2 less things to go wrong.

How does it make your bike 1lb lighter?

yep. N-Gear jump stop and bashguard works perfectly. Run it over loads of ruff stuff without problems.

1x9 rocks.

Kev

No front shifter, so that's about 100g. No inner ring, another 60g, no front mech, another 200g. Bike uses full length cables, so that's another 50g. My device weighs about 50g. Actually saves about 350g so more like 3/4lb now I've added it up!

crikey

only thing i found that worked was a propper chain device, preferably expensive.

My DMR one would bend/jam at just the wrong moment on a climb (say you wanted to ratchet your pedals before hopping up a step) the thin steel plates just couldnt cope.

The MRP which replaced it (system 3) although costing twice as much never dropped the chain once, never worked loose, the bolts didnt round off, the bearings didnt sieze.

Tried the fakie front mech designs as well. They reduce the number of derreilments, but next time i go ingle ring i'll getting one of the e-13 bashguard-less guides (LG-1?)

1x9 with an e.13 LG1 chaindevice here.

I was using 1x9 with a front mech to keep the chain on, today was my first ride in 2 yrs with a granny ring and I was very glad of it grinding up rushup/mt famine and jacobs today!

I'd run 1x9 on all my bikes in an ideal world. Keeping the chain on, though, means it's often less hassle just to go with the front derailleur and run a double up front. DMR make a rinky-dink chain holder-on-er that is cheap and cheerful. Will fit frames that don't have a swing arm in the way.

I have a 1x9 set-up on my gemini with an e13 chain device like Duane which is the perfect solution, but it's expensive. Ran me nearly 100 quid for backplate and chain device IIRC.

For a big bike like the gemini, it's worth paying attention to the rear cluster when running 1x9. I have a small DH style one on at the moment, think it goes up to 28, and it's tough work on the hills. It wouldn't be a real problem on a XC bike but you notice it on the bigger bikes. I've just bought a 32 cassette that should sort that issue out.

tried it with no device at first, fine for commuting but chain kept falling off proper mountain biking, have a gamut chain guide now and no problems so far.

"tried running 1x9 on my heckler when I first built it up, the chain came off all the time"

Were you using a 'normal' chainring though? Ie from a double or triple chainset. They're designed to derail the chain with ease to aid gear changing.

An unramped chainring has much longer teeth and no side ramps for shifting and since swapping to one on my 1x9 setup it doesn't fall off (unlike when I ran it with a ramped chainring)

[url= http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/single-chainring-with-9-spd-cassette ]Have a look at this thread.[/url]

I am also a little confused? I don't see the advantage? I have a single speed and sometimes i do wish it had a few gears at the rear but that to me would defeat the point as my single speed is about as being as basic and cheap as poss, so i can take it to the shops and not need a massive lock, would think a decent cassette and rear mech would double the worth of my bike...

I ran Soul as 1x9 for a year. Got me up all the hills, coped better with mud, lighter. Less faff. I liked it.

I've ran 1x9 for the past few years with nothing and have NEVER dropped a chain

As has been said run a short chain and a short rear mech and you should be fine

[img] [/img]

I am also a little confused? I don't see the advantage? I have a single speed and sometimes i do wish it had a few gears at the rear but that to me would defeat the point as my single speed is about as being as basic and cheap as poss, so i can take it to the shops and not need a massive lock, would think a decent cassette and rear mech would double the worth of my bike...

Maybe it's from riding SS for a long time, but I notice the redundancy of 27 gears, particularly at the lower end - the granny is worthless for the type of riding I do in the UK. Unlike SS, 1x9 doesn't have the simplicity of operation, but if people are saying that all it takes is a short chain and an unramped chainring, then that's pretty straightforward.

the reason i have done it is
i never use the big ring, i roll descents.
i only ever use the granny when i am in the largest rear sprocket. i can walk as fast as using this.
so it seemed common sense.
i am too heavy and not strong enough to use a ss for most of the riding i do.

simple solution 1x9........... 8)

Garry_Lager - Member

It's just a recognition that 1x9 gives you all the ratios you need on a typical mountain bike ride in the UK, so why run a triple?

Depends on where you live - the riding I do I need both a 22 granny ring and a 36 middle - that gives be the ability to do long steep climbs as well as being able to spin up to high 20s MPH

"I don't see the advantage? I have a single speed"

See it as an intermediate step (of possibly many) to SSing the bike. It stops you from being so lazy to drop into granny on climbs, and stops you from burning out in the big ring saving it for the middle ring climb. Once it becomes a too easy range of gears for the riding you ride the bike on you could get a smaller range casette, bigger chainring, or/before loosing everything and going SS.
Thats my idea anyway. Whether I'll ever get fit enought to be able to SS for my local riding is another matter, especially on gloopy winter muddy climbs
The FS is staying 27spd for all round versatility though

"run a short chain and a short rear mech and you should be fine"
I'm running a long cage mech. With a chain shortened by the 'proper' method, it uses its most in-tension range of tension anyway. If anything because the cage is further forward and in more tension more of the time than a short cage one it would be better?
I run it so when I sometimes put it back to 27 speed I don't have to faff with the rear mech at all

thank you for the various responses i do feel honestly enlightened!

"tried running 1x9 on my heckler when I first built it up, the chain came off all the time"

"Were you using a 'normal' chainring though? Ie from a double or triple chainset. They're designed to derail the chain with ease to aid gear changing."

No, using an E13 g-ring.

Fair enough

What rings would people recommend then for this set up..?

Currently running a 33 up front, with 11-32 cassette at the back. When they wear out, I'll probably widen the range a touch by going for an 11-34 and possibly a 32 chainring as they're cheaper/easier to find.

is it ok to run a ss ring up front then or is it just a ring with no shifting ramps (where to buy then?)

"ss ring up front then or is it just a ring with no shifting ramps"

Is it not the same thing? Make sure its not so wide a 9 spd chain won't fit onto it (how wide is a SS specific chainring or chain?)

[url= http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/product-Thorn-Thorn-104-mm-PCD-4-Arm-Reversible-Single-Chainring-3-32-Inch--Black-11054.htm ]9spd compatible, unramped chainrings. the 34T and 36T are cheaper than the 32T though[/url]

Got a trailstar, Running 36t up front, 11-32 out back, with blackspire chain device & bash. Can get a bit noisy if its REALLY muddy, but without it the chain would be off in an instant on even mildly bumpy descents. Do occasionally miss the granny ring, but never really miss the big ring. Took it up the chase today, wondered why more people don't use 1x9 round places like that.

I think SS is the way to go, you soon get used to it and if the hill is too steep then get off and walk and if the down is too fast - coast 😉

I run 1x9 with a 32 tooth ring at the front and a 28/11 cassette & road mech at the back. I did run SS for a bit but hated it because some of the hills are big in the lake district and I also ride on the road quite a bit so SS was far too slow.

I use an e13 srs and it does the job well, never dropped a chain. Before this I had a blackspire somethingorother and it was shit on a hardtail and dropped the chain all the time.

I would definitely get a chain guide if you plan on riding quickly down rocky hills, otherwise your chain will fall off regularly.

Ive never had a problem getting up any hills, its just harder work than a 27 speed bike.

"if the hill is too steep then get off and walk and if the down is too fast - coast"

I'd really rather not
For my liking, that would consitute too much of my bike riding
When I try leaving my bike in a roughly SS gear to see what its like, I start to get bad knee and backpain

Surely SS makes slow speed techy stuff a lot harder too?

Im not sure why xc chainsets still have the granny ring anyway. If your riding an xc bike you can usually power your way up any climb in the middle ring without a problem. I think the granny ring is for lazy people.

So if you arent lazy then you dont need the granny ring, and if you dont ride on the road then you dont need the big ring, therefore 1x9 is all you need.

I've dropped the granny ring off my Cove and run 2x9. You don't need the granny ring with a 34 on the back.

davidtaylforth - Member

Im not sure why xc chainsets still have the granny ring anyway. If your riding an xc bike you can usually power your way up any climb in the middle ring without a problem. I think the granny ring is for lazy people.

Piffle. some of us live where there are hills.

Todays gentle xc runout has a climb of 700 feet in under a mile - including one section of > 1:4 lasting a couple of hundred yards. Only super fit types can get up there without a granny ring - most folk walk it even with a granny ring. thats not the steepest / longerst hill I regularly climb.

You are better off in granny ring using 1-4 on the rear cassette so you can keep up a decent cadence.

22/ 36/ bash is where its at. Climb most hills and pedal up to 28 mph.

Not all of us live in flatland you know

I live in the lake district so some of the hills are pretty decent.

I should have said lazy/weak people

Still piffle old chap - utter drivel. Might be OK for you but to say its not needed for most is just garbage. How often do you climb a couple of hundred yards of 1:3 - 1:4? Or climb a more than a thousand feet a mile?

You are either super fit or bust a gut at a really slow cadence. Some of us know how to spin. On todays ride we used every gear 22/ 34 bottom gear to 36 / 11 top. 1x9 simply does not have enough gears.

Why make life hard for yourself. there is no way ( unless you are super fit or prepared to really mash it at a knee straining low cadence) that you could get up some of my local hills - let alone the real big ones

1x9 simply does not have enough gears.

teej i think it does
i only use 1 other gear and that is granny to 34 sprocket.
on a ride i might use this once or twice.
the rest of the time i am in the middle ring using the whole of the cassette..

Ton - exactly - you use your granny gear sometimes - so 1x9 ain't enough for your hills.

It may be enough for you - even tho you use granny ring - but to say its enough for anyone is simply wrong - I like to be able to spin up steep long hills at 3 - 4 mph at a nice high cadence - slow cadence hurts my knees and I like to be able to hit 30 mph while still pedalling 22 / 36 bash with an 11 / 34 cassette gives me the gears to do this. I simply cannot spin up a 1:4 hill using a 36 ring only.

Still piffle old chap - utter drivel. Might be OK for you but to say its not needed for most is just garbage. How often do you climb a couple of hundred yards of 1:3 - 1:4? Or climb a more than a thousand feet a mile?

You are either super fit or bust a gut at a really slow cadence. Some of us know how to spin. On todays ride we used every gear 22/ 34 bottom gear to 36 / 11 top. 1x9 simply does not have enough gears.

Why make life hard for yourself. there is no way ( unless you are super fit or prepared to really mash it at a knee straining low cadence) that you could get up some of my local hills - let alone the real big ones

I was sort of joking with that comment, I wouldnt say Im super fit by a long shot but I do get bored with just sitting and spinning my legs. Doesnt really feel like your doing much or getting anywhere quickly, I think I prefer to just use harder gears and 'bash on'

Still piffle old chap - utter drivel. Might be OK for you but to say its not needed for most is just garbage. How often do you climb a couple of hundred yards of 1:3 - 1:4? Or climb a more than a thousand feet a mile?

You are either super fit or bust a gut at a really slow cadence. Some of us know how to spin. On todays ride we used every gear 22/ 34 bottom gear to 36 / 11 top. 1x9 simply does not have enough gears.

Why make life hard for yourself. there is no way ( unless you are super fit or prepared to really mash it at a knee straining low cadence) that you could get up some of my local hills - let alone the real big ones

It's too much of a style thing to make ridiculous generalisations about busting a gut in a low cadence versus spinning. Spinning in the granny would be wholly unsuitable for me on anything rough and steep, as I'll never get the power down to move the bike forward (I'm a big bloke) and end up meandering all over the line. It can be great for smooth, steep and long climbs (a ski-slope is a good example) where you need to get into a rhythm, but we have relatively few climbs in the UK that are sustained enough to merit this. Certainly not round Edinburgh FFS - where are these monstrous climbs you're talking about?

I can only think of the Howden burn climb as being really tough round here, at least among tracks that you'd think about taking a bike up. I've certainly never cleaned it. I've also never run out of gears on it, either. Just lungs and legs. I rode up to the radio mast at GT today, skipped the kips and went straight up the hiking path. Difficult climb for me but doable using 32x28. Anything less would have had me spinning on the spot.

Howden burn climb is one of the worst - I have ridden all bar a few m of it and I am old unfit and slow - nice low gears helps me. took me 20 mins tho. Granny gear from the bottom

a lot of it is about style. I like to sit and spin. Solo and tandem. It wasn't me that was making the sweeping generalisations - it was the others with the " no one needs a granny ring"

Again I find it far easier to keep a line spinning away - steadier and less chance of losing traction

I can ride up a steep hill nice and smoothly at 3 mph with a nice easy moderate cadence - around 60 ish?. If you have no granny gear you will be either riding 30% faster at the same cadence ( which I dont have the fitness to do) or at a 30% slower cadence at the same speed. ( which puts more strain on your knees.

A rider actually produce more power at a higher cadence - more torque at a lower one. I find traction much better at a higher cadence