just bought some cheap (£3) baggage scales from ebay as was curious what our bikes weigh. Checked them by weighing known volumes of water and they are surprisingly accurate, to within +/- 250grms for 8kg (as much water as I could store...).
15" Cube Access SL hardtail, standard (incl Rebas) but with Hope XC/717 wheels and XT cassette which dropped about 1.5lbs from stock, 27lbs
Medium Nomad with Lyrik Solo airs and DHX5, Pro II/ DT5.1 wheels, 34lbs
17" Coiler with Marz 55R, vanilla R coil rear, mixed bag of wheels and parts 38lbs 😯
Odd how marketing claims and overeager owners can distort your expectations; the Cube is a small, £1000 hardtail with light wheels and forks and I thought it would have weighed less and had harboured a hope the the Nomad was closer to 30ish lbs.
Always knew the Coiler was a tank, the guides on our Morocco trip made a real play out of hefting it onto the roof of their 4x4...
how do you know the volume of water? 😀
weighed it. Obviously. 🙂
Also bought similar baggage scales from ebay some time ago, but really do not trust them. My 100mm hardtail, now with Reba Team's on, weighs more (32lbs) than the bike should have weighed when bought new with heavy Suntour Raidon forks (30lbs). Similarly singlespeed is apparently 21lbs when it should be less considering wheels are 1300g for both (minus tyres) and lots of carbon bits (but it does have a steel frame).
it never fails to make me smile that 'every' bike on here weighs well under 30lb
M-c, some reality at last on a STW weight thread - surely a first. You are about to be hammered by about 50 people who will swear that their 6" FS is 28lbs or whatever, as weighed by atomic scales accurate to one nanogram.
FWIW my Blur LT2 started off at about 29lbs but is probably now around 30 or a bi over
thomthumb - 1 litre of water = 1kg. Simples
thomthumb - 1 litre of water = 1kg. Simples
Nope not that simple. That is only true at 298K. A change of temperature changes the volumique mass of the water.
My 100mm hardtail, now with Reba Team's on, weighs more (32lbs) than the bike should have weighed when bought new
Where are you getting the weight when new from? You do know that manufacturers are usually hopelessly optimistic?
Similarly singlespeed is apparently 21lbs when it should be less
Why? Your statements about wheel weight do little to convince me, when that's pretty much what my wheels weigh, and my frame, forks and most if not all of the finishing kit on mine probably weigh less than yours (not all carbon stuff is all that light!), yet mine's 21.5lbs.
had harboured a hope the the Nomad was closer to 30ish lbs.
If you're feeling inadequate, a simple cure is to go and ride a 22lb German show bike with 300g tyres down a bashy rocky trail. You'll stop worrying about the weight of your Nomad in no time.
personally when someone says their bike weighs less than 30lbs i think
you are lying
you have crap scales
you believe the bollox printed in the catalogue
or just maybe you have a very lightweight bike, more likely if hardtail
any lighter than 25lbs
you are insane, deluded or have a flimsy bike that cant take a real pounding and is fit only for bridleways
The weigh (see what I did) I see it is that scales can't be that hard to make humans have been making them for hundreds of years so when my £5 fishing scales say that my Pitch weighs ABOUT 32lbs I am inclined to believe it.
I do find it a stretch to understand (let alone believe) why somebody would want a 27lb am bike. Surely it would fold pretty easily.
😀
really cap'n and how do you knbow you have a litre?
Nope not that simple. That is only true at 298K. A change of temperature changes the volumique mass of the water.
but not by much, and certainly not enough, to make someones 34lb bike weigh in at 24lb as some people of here seem to think.
And so begins the age old thread of discussions about bike weight!
Agree that 21lbs for the SS seems likely (what are your 1300g wheels?), and as aracer said manufacturers claimed weights are usually fairly shocking!
Absolutely no idea what my bike weighs, don't care either
There are a lot of people on here who seem to care about the weight of the wrong sort of bike IMO. I like my bike to be very light, but it's for XC racing. 5" trail bikes need to be built in a more 'burly' fashion IMO, bit pointless otherwise! I suppose frames like the Mojo have gone some way to change that, but even so.
Surly a percentage of overall body weight in full cycling gear would be more appropriate?
For example: (100/220lb)x30lb=13.63%
Anything less than 10% would be good going.
BTW that weight is post poo before anyone asks 😆
My bikes weigh loads when I'm on them. Sadly I still think shaving 1.5Kg off the weight of the bike is a feasible idea no matter how pointless. I'd still be slow and overweight no matter the weight of the bike.
my single speed is heavier than my full sus, and hard tail -fact!
My £800 road bike is heavier than my FS disc-brake equipped MTB. FACT.
but not by much, and certainly not enough, to make someones 34lb bike weigh in at 24lb as some people of here seem to think.
True but I just wanted to be pedant 😉 as I can't use pedantic comment when it comes to spelling 🙁
Oh and my SS mtb is lighter than my SS road bike.
as people says why would you want a proper moutain bike to be THAT light.
Buying scales = prepare for disappointment. lol
That said, my Five - being the versatile do it all bike it is - ranges from 28lb in marathon spec, 29lb in normal trail spec, 30lb in burlier trail spec and 32lb in DH uplift mode. Nearly all of those weight variations is down to a tyre and tube combinations (with minor spec changes) LOL. The lightest being 2.1 HRs with 1.5 tubes to 2.35 Kendas with DH tubes (500g a piece!)
I stopped agonising over grams here and there when I can drop or gain a whole pound or two based on what rubber is going on.
I too laugh at people going crazy light on supposedly burlier bikes. I got my Five down towards the 26lb mark at one point and it was rubbish! I ended up just getting fitter and dealing with the 30lb weight which seems the best weight for it and is the most fun.
Kimbers- personally when someone says their bike weighs less than 30lbs i think, you are lying, you have crap scales
Kimbers that is 100% blolax
yes true for a FS which costs from £700-2000 but spend 4k on a bike and you can easily build a long travel 5/6" under 30lbs and still have it very hard hitting, same with a ss under 21lbs. I have a mate with a custom TI SS, made to measure, I think he blew 4k on it, yes 4k on a Ti ss.. to me mental but it is stupidly light and his cash, he has never had any problems with it, its light and strong and he paid to get that match…..
I have a carbon scott ransom 6.5” travel, with a few other carbon bits on it, some Ti bolts nice DT swiss wheels, its hard hitting but sitting at 31 lbs. I have seen I can take another 1kg off (2.2 lbs) without sacrificing performance or strength.. 30 and under is achievable if you can spend the cash. Take X-0….. light but daft amount of cash for little weight saving over x-7/9, they may be small differences but they all add up if you get your whole bike with top end stuff. You need to be splashing big cash like £600 on a set of wheels. I think my mates Nomad with dt swiss, X-0, carbon etc is around 29/30 and it is a beast but a lot of money! I have owned other 5/6” bikes that weight 40-45 before as I did not get top end kit… its just a matter of cash tbh.
I do think a lighter bike makes it easier to manover esp in the air and obv lighter wheels tyres etc means less rolling resistance but yes it is possible to go too light for a LT bike.
fit only for bridleways
eh?!
According to sofatesters formula, my Orange Five = 27%
My road bike is lighter than Lance Armstrong's. FACT.
As are plenty of peoples, or pretty much any decent off the shelf road bike!
In fact there's an increasing number of MTBs heading for 6.8kg now! That is scary!
I'm in at 19% according to that my formula (using my 32lbs NS Surge - my scales were calibrated in 2002 but I really don't care that they aren't accurate :p)
Sofatester... So if I'm a fat person my % will be lower? I don't follow, sureley that would be not as good as being light with a light bike?
20% Because I'm a lightweight with a semi-light bike.
(100/120)*24 = 20%
My brain is fried today, so I might be missing the point somewhere..
I think it should be bike + rider = 68 Kilo's 😀
Calibrated scales every month here at work.
I'm 14%, pretty light with a light bike. I know of a member who's around 8%, that's pretty impressive!
A bunch of us went round to the vets to weigh in our bikes. Small Trance - 27lbs; large Heckler - 29lbs; medium Handjob - 25.5lbs; large Norco Faze - 25.5lbs; small Charge Duster - 28lbs.
ok so i am 61.5 kg. Bike is 15kg. Gear is about 7kg (3L of water + tools pump helmet and knee pad, spares jacket etc etc).
So according to your formula it's:
35% or 21% if I consider the non bike weight to be with the rider.
I know of a member who's around 8%, that's pretty impressive!
Impressive because he's fat?
My % has improved somewhat recently 🙁 Currently just under 13%.
Kit - MemberA bunch of us went round to the vets to weigh in our bikes.
Jeezus wept.
Millkie - that was kind of what I was getting at. My bike's around the 30lb mark (probably 28/29 now) but I'm about 110lbs with riding gear. Even my ti hardtail ss comes out at 24%.
The formula is good for complaining to my husband that my bike is sooooo much heavier than his though! (Yep, he's got an orange 5 too, but then weighs about double what i do)
Anywho, I don't care too much - it's light enough I can get up the hills and planted enough that I have fun coming down (well on the Orange anyway!)
Lionheart - Member
my single speed is heavier than my full sus, and hard tail -fact!
WHAT I know the EBB INbred frame is heavy at 5.5lbs ( 1.25 more than the cotic)on the wifes kitchen scales but what did you build it up with??
Or are your other bikes silly light
Another simple test to see if your bike to too heavy for you is the stile test:
Can you lift your mountain bike over a stile while riding some "cheeky"?
Yes? Your strong and fit enough to ride it so go forth and conquer!
No? Your "over biked" so go home and think about your pointless existence!
I don't think I've ever ridden with anybody who couldn't lift their bike over a stile!
Jeezus wept.
Why? Friend owns a vetinary practice. He has big scales that will take a bike without having to stand on and hold. They are probably more accurate than regular bathroom scales. Good enough for me!
CrAsH...tEsT..dUmMy
so what you are saying is you know one person with a sub 30lb bike and thats coz he spent over 4k on it and decked it out with ti parts
you have a carbon bike that weighs over 30lbs, your mates nomad may weigh in at 29/30 lbs
so i guess that falls into the last part of my post.... just maybe you have a very lightweight bike a hardtail
so you have proved my point utterly most proper mtbs weigh 30lb+
I love the continual obsession on weight by those who will realise very little advantage from a) knowing it and b) being able to lop 1lb or whatever off.
Nick is right on the money - If it's not for racing, then all you need to worry about is whether or not you can portage it without filling your Osteopath's pockets.
If it's not for racing, then all you need to worry about is whether or not you can portage it without filling your Osteopath's pockets.
LOL!
I have a sub 20lb hardtail (for racing and xc duties) a 24.4lb steel singlespeed and my mount vision boingy jobbo is 26.75lbs ( a propper bike) my 5" sinister all mountain rig was still only 29lbs with tuff kit on it and that was a beast. the "very little advantage" of leight weight is the fact that loosing weight of the bike in right places makes it go quicker for longer with less effort meaning that I can get a bigger day out in mountains. If you just want to roll round a trail centre by all means have a big lardy bike! I'll stick with better acceleration and faster bikes thanks.
the "very little advantage" of leight weight is the fact that loosing weight of the bike in right places makes it go quicker for longer with less effort
No more so than losing the same amount of weight off your belly, and with the same proportionate effect (ie for the average rider/bike, 1lb is little more than 0.5% - I'm sure it makes all the difference having a 100.5km day out rather than a 100km day out 🙄 )
i agree, being a lighter fitter person with less of a gut will always make you faster than being a fat boy on a light bike, which is why I'm a fit bloke on light bike, best of both worlds 😆
It depends what you consider an "average rider/bike" from posts on here, fifteen stone biffers on 30lb plus bikes seems to be the norm
"fifteen stone biffers on 30lb plus bikes "
LOL, so true 😀 (and that includes me)
kimbers - Member
personally when someone says their bike weighs less than 30lbs i thinkyou are lying
you have crap scales
you believe the bollox printed in the catalogue
I don't lie
Why do people who can't face to admit their own bike isn't as light as they'd like it have to claim that peoples scales must be so horrendously innaccurate that they would put X amount of lbs on the weight of a bike? And why would any innaccuracies always be on the light side? Chin up kimbers, you never know, your scales may be that crap your bike really weighs 25lb and not 35lb.
Seeing as I built my bike up myself, I have no-one's bullshit to believe.
CaptainMainwaring - Member
M-c, some reality at last on a STW weight thread - surely a first. You are about to be hammered by about [b]50 people who will swear that their 6" FS is 28lbs[/b] or whatever, as weighed by atomic scales accurate to one nanogram.
My 6" bike is 28lbs
Oh, that's with a huge front tyre, lock-on's and heavy Hope Tech M4's.
[img]
[/img]
Just worked out that my Epic is something like 10% of my weight (it's fairly light and I'm not) - or at least it is when it's not as muddy as it is after tonights ride!
My Epic is quite a lot lighter than either of my hardtails. I used to have a hardtail that was a fair bit lighter but I found it quite skittish, although it did climb well.
i dont own any scales
and i have no idea what my bikes weigh and i built them all myself (apart from the bmx)
only that my dh bike is pretty heavy, my xc/am bike is lighter and my rigid hardtail is pretty light and my bmx just feels totally different and i wouldnt know where it sits really
i dont need to know the weight of them to enjoy them 🙂
The thing is, these threads bring out two types of people, those who are hopelessly optimistic about their bike weights (which are based on guessing, manufacturers weight, dodgy bathroom scales or a spreadsheet), and those who think it's not possible to have a light bike because their bikes aren't that light and because of the existence of type 1. What the second type don't realise is that it is possible to get bike bits much lighter than the ones they have, and that if you are completely obsessive about every single bit on your bike it is possible to make a really light bike which is still strong enough to ride on serious off road terrain. The only issue being that KB's old maxim "strong, light, cheap pick two" does still apply!
Plenty of knarly stuff on bridleways, but I've ridden my 21.5lb susser on black runs (it's me that's the limiting factor, not the bike).
Seeing as I built my bike up myself, I have no-one's bullshit to believe.My 6" bike is 28lbs
Oh, that's with a huge front tyre, lock-on's and heavy Hope Tech M4's.
Weighed how? Your comments make me wonder whether it's a spreadsheet weight.
Ooh, those lock-ons add grams. Grams I tell thee!
Fishing scales, which I suppose must be grossly innaccurate.
Why would my comments lead you to believe I used a spreadsheet?
I notice that some people have weighed their bikes on fishing scales. Surely any scales sold to fishermen will exaggerate the weight by at least 25% and the bike will become heavier each time you weigh it.
Just worked out that my Epic is something like 10% of my weight (it's fairly light and I'm not)
That's not gonna be less than 25 that one at a guess?
lock on's can add over 150grams to your bike, using tubes, pointlessly heavy tyres for the terrain you ride,etc.... lot's of little bits soon add up, bit like "oooo it's only an extra helping/cake/pint, how come I'm a fat B**tard?"
you either enjoy building and riding a light bike, or you just don't get it, thats fine, it's down to personal preferance.
I've used spead sheets and use calibrated hanging scales, the main reason for the spreadsheet is that if you know how heavy all the kit is, you can replace the key bits first on a cost effective basis rather than spending a silly ammount on carbon bits, but still riding with heavy wheels/tyres. you would also be suprised how bloody heavy OEM kit is.
And Yes I'm a complete weight weenie, and my sub 20lb bike cost me well under a grand to build and yes it goes up and down propper mountains without suddenly melting or expolding in sea of unobtanium widgets.
I have a light, 24lb XC racer bouncer. I put effort into making it light, but not mental light.
I have a 32lb hardtail. It's mint, it's the best bike in the world. It gets up hills. Eventually. Clever wheel choice is what's saved it from being a bind.
My new bike is a bouncer where the manufacturer actually over estimated the weight by 3lbs!
For what it's worth, I think 4lbs off a bike is pretty noticeable- more so than 4lbs off yourself. I'd say saving weight off the bike is better than off yourself. Fortunately I'm a bit fitter than I used to be and don't mind hauling 32lbs of beast around with me. I did have a 38lb bouncer once and it was too much, though.
a 32lb mint hardtail with "clever wheels"? 😕 what's clever about them? 😕 (seriously?)
it's pretty easy to get most hardtails under 30lb (mine is 31lb - built with nothing but very strong dependable components, dirt jump frame/pikes/saint/DH rims etc.)
I've used spead sheets
Whatever makes you happy I suppose. 😕
For what it's worth, I think 4lbs off a bike is pretty noticeable- more so than 4lbs off yourself.
In some circumstances certainly. I always justify my light bike on the basis that some of the most crucial parts of races I do involve hiking uphill with the bike on your shoulder, in which case weight of the bike is a huge amount more important than weight off my belly!
Using the Ultimate scales in the LBS my heavy duty 5 Spot trail bike comes in at 30.5lbs, my Hummer hard tail 23.5lb. Love them both in the right place.
GW- I chose to go for 719 rims rather than heavier ones, and lighter tyres. I'm all for reducing rotating weight to make hauling the bike around easier.
It's for DH tracks as well as days in the mountains.
My light bikes go up hills rather well, sometimes feel like cheating, but I pay on knarly bits, they (me) are just unwilling to go as fast or hit things too hard/big. The heavy bikes are serious fun down steep, hard, - mostly dh tracks etc but best get a lift up or be prepared for a walk. The ones in the middle I usually find too much of a compromise, not much (enough) fun up or down. My SS goes up, serious satisfaction, and down, cool to make it down hard stuff, and cruises along the in-between bits in a laid back way.
my sub 20lb bike cost me well under a grand
Nice, all second hand presumably!?
Weight crazy?
Did anyone know that Julian Absalon only uses 3 bolts on his chain rings! - I'd so laugh if it broke and he lost a race because of it!
You can't tell me that the weight of one bolt can affect his performance that much!
Also as someone of 16 Stone+ (of muscle of course), my weight, rather than the bikes is more important isn't it!
(what 2 kg when you way over 100!)
ok after an hour on weight weenies and a spreadsheet i reckon my 17inch kona bear dee-lux (thats my do it all xc ish bike) with 130mm float rlc front n rear, pro2s on 717, deore ht2 cranks, ea50/ rf atlas bits, sdg bel air ti, hope minis(160/140), panaracer cinders, dmr guide/e13 bash/middleburn rings and odi ruffians! etc weighs.........
13903g = 30.6508683lbs
i weigh about 13 stone
the only assumption i had to make was a dim recollection that the frame is 6.3lbs and ive upgraded the rocker arms to betd ones so added on a few hundred grames
oh and after 6 years of abuse including 2 megavalanches, xc and dh races as well as alps, scotish, welsh trail centres and thetford forest im 100% confident that the bike is now perfect for what i do, though id swap to bigger discs for the alps (180/160)
i now wanna weigh it for real to see what i come up with!
For some reason I feel compelled to add to this. I recently bought a 6 inch travel bike. I have spent a few hundred quid chaning some fairly important bits in favour of much lighter and stronger kit. The manufactures stated weight for the bike is 34 lbs. After my mods it now weighs - 34lbs. At least I know it really is up to the task now, I've transformed the way the bike feels with no weight penalty.
With regards to what others are saying about weight making a difference or not, well I've ridden a version of my bike which was easily 5lbs lighter than mine (going by manu stated weights and left and right arm lift tests) and the difference was massive. Noticeably more nimble on the climbs and less predictable in the air. Imo wheels and forks would be the most important places to save weight on a bike to really feel the difference. Just my opinion of course. Probably worth shit.
OK, have a guess at the weight of this...
[img] http://images.fotopic.net/?iid=1y7ca7&outx=800&quality=70 [/img]
Triple butted Ti frame, road wheels, 330g tyres, pace RC31's, formula SL brakes & X0.
I have no idea how so many people can claim a 'racing' FS to be the same sort of weight.
2unfit2ride - MemberOK, have a guess at the weight of this...
23lbs? Do I win a prize if I get it right?
What all of you guys who who say the "weight of a bike isn't important" seem to forget is that a 26lb bike feels and rides differently to a 32lb bike. Depending on your preference you might prefer the feel of a heavier bike???, but loads of riders prefer the nimble feel and zippy acceleration you get from a light bike, regardless of rider weight.If you enjoy riding a great lump of metal good for you, but for normal riding around anything over 30lbs seems dead and lifeless to me.
taxi25 but for normal riding around anything over 30lbs seems dead and lifeless to me.
Define normal.
Hardtail 28lbs ish depending on tyres, tandem 50 lbs ish. weighed on bathroom scales so distinctly ish
Both with full mudguards and bottle cages, the tandem also has a rack. Hardtail has pikes so a lb or so could be saved there, take off the guards and bottle cage a bit more gone, 5.1 rims ain't the lightest. No carbon 'cos it scares me. I can easily believe a hardtail in the low 20 lbs without spending silly money with wise choices
all my bikes including the tandem have to be carried up 106 stairs at the end of every ride - weight is important to me. I also ain't that fit but like going into the big mountains.
You can buy a hardtail tandem that is 35 lbs and strong enough for real offroad use - just don't ask the price
kimbershere are some pics...
Yes it's true, judging by those pics you weigh 13 stone.
OK, have a guess at the weight of this...
...
I have no idea how so many people can claim a 'racing' FS to be the same sort of weight.
Well based on the latter comment, I'd have a stab at 21.5lbs 😉
Based on the spec I'd kind of have thought lighter than that, but then ti frames aren't all that light, road wheels are almost certainly heavier than my MTB wheels (my fairly light road wheels are!) and your finishing kit is almost certainly heavier than what I have.
A hardtail in the low 20s? Easy
Full Suss in the low 20s is a bit more spendy though. My Blur XC Carbon is around 24lbs with full XTR, Rebas, NNs on 355/Pro2 and carbon bars & stem. I can think of a few ways to make it a bit lighter at some additional cost, but also feel it would start to be getting a bit less robust. Weight is important for me because I expect to be pushing/carrying it up a few mountains.
My 6" bike is 28lbsOh, that's with a huge front tyre, lock-on's and heavy Hope Tech M4's
Quite possible, although I'm guessing a very light frame, like an Ibis.
These threads are quite ammusing. Usually the same people saying the same things 🙂
I like a light bike because I'm fairly light myself, so its more important. But I don't go to extremes.
Did anyone know that Julian Absalon only uses 3 bolts on his chain rings! - I'd so laugh if it broke and he lost a race because of it!
I am sure he is 100% happy that it is safe for HIM to do that. No doubt he has tested is lots of times and had no problems. If he thought that an extra 5g would cost him a race, then he wouldn't do it... but if your sure it wont break then why not?
My bike above is a tad over 20lbs & its skittish as hell, in a good way though, I don't think I could ride a trail bike that was less than 25lbs ish.



