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Definitely interested in this! This actually looks do-able for an idiot like me :-).
A quick run through a build sequence ( other peoples methods may vary )
You have got your housing all shiny and shaped to your liking .
it needs a thorough wash to get any swarf and grease off it
and you are ready to start .
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as you see the 20 mm led star is 1 mm too big to fit top to bottom
so a careful filing is required being mega careful not to knock the led dome off remove enough ali so it fits snug but don't go right to the top and bottom solder pad as you don't want them to short on the case .
and before installing them in the case it is a good idea to tin the pads you are going to be using
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next to install the leds I have used Arctic alumina epoxy for speed
but at £8 for a kit of the stuff you can drill and screw the stars to the heat sink and use some thermal paste .
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then connect your feed wires and pass them through to the rear .
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time to now fix the reflectors
use some of the serious glue and make a ring round the leds
being careful not to get any on the leds
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and fit the reflectors making sure to seat them level and wait for the glue to set .
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when it has set you can also fit the lexan cover using careful application of the glue around the ledge
and maybe a bead around after the lexan is in place for added waterproofing .
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the Driver next and this applies to both H6flex and Lflex drivers
when soldering wires to them you must make sure they dont protrude out the bottom as the driver needs a flat base for the thermal adhesive tape provided to fix it in the housing
you will have drilled your backplate for the switch and what ever power entry you have chosen or bribed me to drill them I have used the Liberator connectors for this build .
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now it gets a bit fiddly when the connections are made
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remove on side of the protective covering and apply the tape to the driver base .
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remove the other side and insert in the case in your desired position
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the tape will not stick tight until you warm up the case with a hairdryer and carefully seat the driver flat .
it is important the driver is well seated as it needs to be kept cool also.
seal up the back with some of the glue and screws and job nearly done
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you now need to configure your driver using the instructions on the www.taskled.com site
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Chris,
I'd be interested in a 1800 kit. Would be my 5th Troutie light!! Would seem a real shame to miss out on the next generation!
Am I right in thinking these are going to be fairly narrow so perfect for helmet light?
I'd be replacing my 3 x XPE R2 helmet light which although has a great throw, does gets pretty drowned out by my Liberator, but wouldn't want to lose the throw of the XPE. 1800 be roughly twice as bright as the XPE?
Dave
PS went for a ride a couple of weeks back with 6 Trout creations between 4 of us: got a local monopoly going on here!
Nice, Chris!
Couple of Q's: Do you supply a piece of L angle or similar for the LED board? If so, do you supply the case with a tapped hole for the bar mount in the case or the L angle (or both)? Is this hole the primary means of holding the LED plate to the case?
Dave
Yes they are a good helmet beam and OMG bright
beam shot when it gets dark tonight .
Bobblehat
no L angle in there it is an 8 mm thick lump of billet
and an interference fit with some paste for good measure forced in with a gert big vice and then the M4 tapped hole is drilled into it so it aint going anywhere .
Looks great how do I order one? Thanks
I kind of want one, I don't need one, but I want one...
Thanks Chris, sounds good, looks good ..... tastes good and by golly it probably does you good as well! 🙂
It's the Mackeson Light!
Beam shots at the MTBR settings
low approx 280 lumens runtime from a 2.6 amp hour 14.8 v battery
is approx 28 hours
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medium approx 560 lumens runtime from same battery 8 hours approx
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High approx 1800 lumens runtime as above battery 1 hour 40 mins
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other levels are available if you need to tweak runtimes
i love you
Can you give me a price on a driver, LED's & reflectors please. Hopefully if you are buying in bulk this would be better than what I could get the hardware for.
cheers. (mail in profile)
OK will have a workout tonight Evesie
which driver ?
Stuey. are you a fit female ?
I could be for you..
<<Has selling led light made you a multi millionaire yet ?>>
Is there a driver solution that allows for swapping between <8.4v and >8.4v ?
Is there a driver solution that allows for swapping between <8.4v and >8.4v ?
not realy for a doube xml set up.
H6Flex. for > 8.4. and. LFlex for. < 8.4.
Multi billionaire really with a girl in every town
Trout - Did I miss it, but how much would the double set up be?
I was looking at doing your 700 lumen lights...but now Im thinking!
will definatly have an 1800 kit from you
Is there a way of making the medium setting a bit higher? Say 1000 lumens ish for 4 hours ish on that battery?
Probably more useful for singletrack stuff like that, with the full setting just for faster downhills and foxhunting. 🙂
I'd take a kit if that were the case.
I'd definately be interested in an 1800 kit.
Slightly ot question, and you've probably done it already... but, how much longer would the casing of the single have to be to fit batteries in as well??
put me down for a double then please.
i may take a few singles, with the H6 >8.4V drivers, w/o cases too, for conversions, if that's ok?
see how the numbers work out.
These batteries seem like they would do the trick nicely!
[url= http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=16575 ]A123 from HobbyKing[/url]
I'm interested in some loose xmls on stars if you could hook me up troutie?
Battery wise I was wondering if this would do?
£30 but is it likely to fail and blow up!
Another neat light there Mr T 8)
If anyone is after a purpose built 7.5V 4.4Ah Li-Ion Battery along with pouch, charger & mains lead.
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I will also include a mating lead for the light head.
£63 inc p&p but limited availablility.
Please email me for more information.
Smudge
Mr Trout,
LFlex please - I like nice small battery packs.
Put me down for a 1800 lumen kit, with a driver for a 12v battery.
Battery wise I was wondering if this would do?£30 but is it likely to fail and blow up!
I've got one of those. Works fine. Big old lump though. [url= http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=400161359813 ]This pouch is a good fit for it.[/url]
Chris - your website is down and I [s]want[/s] need some of your finest lights.
What have you got that will burn for 4-5 hours and bring down small aircraft?
How much and how soon?
email me if you don't want to post up here.
Cheers
Put me down for a double running 15v please Chris.
I will take a 1800 Lflex kit please .mail us with further instructions
Simon
Interested in an 1800 with a H6Flex
Forgot to mention in an earlier post that I'd want an Lflex driver with the 1800 kit.
Mail in profile.
Iain
Hello peeps had a horrific few days working 18 hours a day and falling asleep as soon as I get home so sorry for disappearing.
got a price worked out for the double kits but with a change of optics as the reflector has a sharp cut off at the sides which I dont like so will be using Ledil Laura optics build will be just as easy so no worries there .
as said before the housings will be rough machined and you will need to do a bit of finishing on it
to build you will only need to get some thermal paste or thermal epoxy
everything else will be included in the kit .
I only have 2 of the H6flex`s in stock with more on order so will be a while before they arrive .
I have 15 of the Lflexs in stock with more on order.
prices are H6fex kit £95 posted ( battery > 8.4 volts )
Lflex kit £85 posted ( Battery 8.4 volts )
email me if you want one mail in profile
Hi Chris, mail sent
Iain
mail sent
Thanks Simon
fingers crossed I don't have to wait to long.
Hello mail sent,many thanks.
I’m Interested in the 1800, but would there be significant weight saving/improved runtime for a in a single 900? Could the housing be pared down for that too?
I’m thinking more for Helmet light run off 1 or 2 18650s
My current 1*18650 P7 torch on the noggin is OK but the same or more output with less weight would always be ideal…
Any idea on costs for the single kit yet?
I don't know if one of these would run off 1x18650. If it could I'd be interested in finding out how long for etc. Now that would be a Joystick Maxx destroyer!
Well that was my thinking…
I bought an R2 Drop in ages ago with a view to building a simple, small lightweight helmet lamp with a flying lead to a 1 or 2 cell Battery pack/switch for use only as a Single Track/Dark Descents Helmet Lamp, but never finished the exercise…
A Single XML could well fit the bill if the < 8.4 V - LFlex Driver would let me use 7.4 V –ish (2 x 18650)…
Out of my depth a bit there but would really not knowing anything about the driver…
Small and light with a 1-1.5 Hr Burn time (from 2 x 18650) on full is all I would really need to be honest…
The Lflex will run a single XML from a single 18650 that is what it was designed for
or multiple 18650`s in parallel .keeping it at 3.7 volts it wont do single xml and 7.4 volt pack
for full whack it will be taking 3 amps from the battery so a single on full wont do an hour but it also dims
ideal setup would be single xml / LFlex and 2 cell 3.7 volt pack
or 2 xmls in series and a 7.4 volt pack .
as the only difference from single to double is one led and optic
the single is £72 plus pp
comes with bar mount you would need to make a helmet mount for it
I just built one and it weighs 50 grams but its a tight fit in the case for the switch and lflex plus cable entry but doable
@troutie - too much heat for even a big Hammond box to dissipate? If not, would be interested in an 'internals' kit 🙂
Hmmm, so 2 x 18650 in parallel should work a treat, I was hoping to assemble the battery pack and Switch together - remote from the lamp (Flying lead to Bag or Wrist strap mounted jobbie perhaps) which probably makes a little extra space in the housing but might become a wiring faff…
Does the switch have to be wired direct to the Driver or can I bridge that? will the driver detect switching via the power battery connections? Like a Torches tail cap clicky?
Well, I've already built two dual XPG's in hammond boxes, one bar mount, one helmet mount. So I don't really need another lamp.......but I do want one of these 😀
Put me down for one H6flex dual lamp please.......I'm so weak....
Dr Rad
might get away with a standard box and a small finned sink on top
or just keep moving fast .
Cookeaa no you need to connect to the proper terminals on the Lflex
though you can still do the remote switch as long as you dont go very long with the cable .
Flicker drop me a mail if you already haven't