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  • Glenfinnan to Cape Wrath part 2 – Glen Shiel, the Falls of Glomach and Torridon
  • 13thfloormonk
    Full Member

    …continued from this thread.

    Day 3 – Suardalan Bothy to Allt Beithe (Glen Affric)

    After a pleasant night in Suardalan practicing my pathetic firelighting skills with some very damp wood, and listening to the mice fustle with my empty porridge bags, I set off for Glen Shiel via the Ratagan Pass. Leaving Suardalan was a frustrating process, the path was rough and sodden, and I eventually just made a bee-line for the river and forded it to get to the road on the other side.

    Things started improving once i reached the Ratagan Pass, a nice gentle climb with some amazing views and a great (tarmac) descent.


    Glen Shiel wildlife, unlikely to find its way onto any shortbread tins or postcards any time soon…

    Gleann Lichd, with the Lichd hut just out of shot. The hut was locked but had a tiny little open shelter to the side. In a little nook in the wall were one tin of beans and one half bottle of Napolean Brandy for the truly benighted traveller…

    The climb out of Glean lichd towards the Allt Grannda falls and Glen Affric. The fry up I'd had in Glen Shiel was really weighing on my stomach here, and I made pathetic headway up what would probably be a challenging but entertaining climb (its a Kenny Wilson route as well, you have been warned!)

    the Allt Grannda falls, a pretty spectacular cauldron that appears out of nowhere as you round a hidden corner through the glen. Not the best photo but a brilliant wee spot.


    Self timed japery around the side of the falls (and crossing one of them!)

    Looking back. This was one of countless amazing trails that I chose to climb along my trip. I do feel a little cheated that most of the good trails seemed to point uphill and not downhill, but thats probably why I made it back in one piece…

    Glen Affric hostel, also known as Allt Beithe. Great wee hostel, not much better than the bothy slightly further up the glen (Camban) but at least i was guaranteed company, and a shower of sorts. My strategy of trying to get old hillwalkers drunk so they'd reveal the location of the secret Cairngorm's howff seemed to work in here, unless 'Albert' was having a joke at my expense… (and for anyone who knows, don't tell me, I would feel cheated to learn the location via the interweb..)

    Day 4 – Glen Affric to the Falls of Glomach and Strath Carron

    This day was a shambles. The hefty push up the Allt Grannda the day before had left me a bit demoralised, so I was quick to dismount when the relatively good path up Gleann Gniomhaidh started to deteriorate. My mood darkened further when a relatively smooth and shallow mud patch turned out to be a very deep mud puddle which pitched me over the bars and up to my shoulder in black peaty mud 👿

    The beach beneath Bealach an Sgairne soothed my battered pride, and I stayed here for a while, smoking rollies and eating cheese and oatcakes. I eventually decided to miss out the supposedly fantastic descent down the Bealach (and subsequent climb back out) and instead stay high and hike through the trackless Gleann Gaorsaic to reach the Falls of Glomach. I enjoyed this despite myself, as I hadn't expected any trail I wasn't disappointed when I didn't find one 😀


    [img]http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs488.ash1/26676_10150224834890241_837435240_12972382_5542242_n.jpg[/img]

    The Falls of Glomach. Terrifyingly big and hidden, who knows what lurks down in the gorge, and its nigh on impossible to look straight down it as the sides are all very vertical.

    The track down from the falls was spectacular, not all rideable, but the good bits were very very good. On the last section there was a tricky scramble over a rocky outcrop that required some very neat footwork with the bike on the back. It was at this point that I met an older couple, the wife of whom was having a little fit of refusal hysterics at how steep and nasty the climb was. I doubt her state of mind was helped in anyway by a disshevelled and garishly clothed biker downclimbing the track with a bike on his shoulder…

    The bridge over to the Glen Elchaig track; a brief civilised interlude in the trails where I could actually pedal, coast and sit on the saddle for more than 30 seconds at a time. This took me to Killilan which was nothing short of idyllic, but posed a problem. I could stop here, but that would leave me well short of the day's target, which left me with a potentially long and tricky ride to Achnashellach station the next morning, where I was meeting robgarrioch for the Torridon leg.

    I decided instead to carry on through the beautiful Glen Ling (another spectacular path that I was too heavy/tired to do justice) and eventually made it to Loch an Iasaich.

    The final descent of the day, sunset over the Attadale estate track, lots of loose, steep landrover track corners which led to the main road, and eventually the Strathcarron pub, where I pitched my tent in the neighbouring chicken field and spent the night talking crap with hillwalkers in the pub. Brilliant.

    I know I promised robgarrioch and torridon in this installment, but this post is getting a bit long so I'll save it till next time, where I pass through Torridon, visit Loch Maree, and ride through Fisherfield to the awesome An Teallach.

    (and I'm working on a map for those who asked, bear with me!)

    Trekster
    Full Member

    Awsome 😆

    If only I was a yr or 2 younger 😉

    epicsteve
    Free Member

    Great stuff – keep it coming.

    euanr
    Free Member

    Cracking stuff.

    I can confirm that the Allt Grannda track is brilliant to ride downhill – sorry! We took it in on a 4 dayer from Newtonmore to Plockton. Allt Beithe is one of my favorite hostels too.

    Got to love the Fall of Glomach – got major vertigo when I visited. Apparently in ice-climbable condition last winter! Scary.

    lowey
    Full Member

    Brilliant. Proper adventure.

    freeridenick
    Free Member

    Great adventure – very jealous

    Waderider
    Free Member

    Nice. I like the bit about not wanting to learn about bothies on the net, as it is a form of cheating. Most people want a list nowadays.

    Looking forward to the next instalment.

    bigdonx
    Free Member

    Aye, you're a hardy loon……

    13thfloormonk
    Full Member

    Euanr, very jealous! However this will form part of the next trip, a trip which will predominantly feature hostels and light rucsacs!

    Spoke to a gent on last night's Bikechain ride who had done the walk up the falls in the verrglass (is that what its called?). Rather him than me!

    Waderider, I should confess to having a wee look on google earth for the secret howff, but thankfully it wasn't too conclusive so the mystery still remains intact! Looking forward to a weekend in the area sometime soon…

    robgarrioch
    Full Member

    This day was a shambles

    This further explains your 'just-about-had-enough-for-now' expression at Achnashellach!

    Excellent story-telling as always.

    PaulGillespie
    Free Member

    13thFM, great trip report yet again. Have you seen the website that shows you pictures inside the howff? It will definately whet the appetite, does not give the locaion away though. let me know if you want the link.

    13thfloormonk
    Full Member

    Thanks Paul, would rather keep it a surprise when I get there, Mountain Days and bothy nights has kept the appetite sufficiently whetted!

    13thfloormonk
    Full Member

    Map, of sorts, here

    robgarrioch
    Full Member

    oh, and stop promising me to other people!

    (the gimp suit's been away a loooong time :mrgreen: )

    white101
    Full Member

    I love reading about other peoples adventures on here, great story and pics, this kinda stuff really keeps you enthused about the sport and makes you think about what's out there beyond your comfort zone and usual riding

    Edric64
    Free Member

    This looks like a cracking ride through some lovely wilderness country

    piha
    Free Member

    Fantastic report and the photo's are great. Thanks for posting.

    stuartie_c
    Free Member

    Brilliant AGAIN Ian!

    Falls of Glomach are like some prehistoric lost world, aren't they? Like a wee piece of Venezuela on the West Coast of Scotland.

    esselgruntfuttock
    Free Member

    Excellent stuff. I'm not jealous at all, it just makes me more determined to do something similar. Well done!

    cinnamon_girl
    Full Member

    Thank you once again for sharing this and I'm full of admiration. 8)

    Can't believe how little luggage you appear to have – do you have this down to a fine art/minimalist stylee?

    Such beautiful scenery – rugged and unspoilt but, tell me, were those goats or what??!!

    Definitely looking forward to the next instalment!

    madeinyorkshire
    Free Member

    Looking forward to Part 3 Ian , when are you posting it ?

    13thfloormonk
    Full Member

    Eh… soonish!

    and cinnamon girl, they were goats, and llammas (how do you stop spelling llllammmma?) and there are more goats to come!

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