[Closed] I've broken 4 frames in 13 months. Recommend me a 29er hardtail.

How much seatpost have you got sticking out? Is it just a 330mm post?

GB

They've all broken there?

You spend too much time sat down. 😉

Don't on-one have some good deals on Rohloff ti frames right now? They're not the best frames though - a mate of mine (who isn't 95kg) has broken 3 of them at the dropouts and seat tube.

Had a Ti frame go exactly in the same way as above pics.

I knew someone would ask about seat post length. 🙂
142mm of Thomson post in the frame.

Just looking up On One now.
Santa Cruz Chameleon looks like it could fit the bill for a frame only. I used to run a Rohloff in a 26er. Does anyone sell the 29er in the UK ?

I hope you're sending that Lynksy straight back where it came from?

Just checking: how much seat post have you typically got in the seat tube? Is it a fairly tight fit or is it really only being held by the clamp. Is the very end of the post below the bottom of the weld points for the top-tube and seat stays? If the seat post is not so deep and you sit a lot, it might not be able to cope with the leverage from your strong pedal strokes. Similarly, if the post is loose in the tube and only really held at the clamp = lots of leverage. It's a theory.

The Lynskey is particularly gutting I expect.

Large Chumba HX2?

[url= http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5184/5610100570_85f13fc277_z.jp g" target="_blank">http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5184/5610100570_85f13fc277_z.jp g"/> [/img][/url]
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/93388219@N00/5610100570/ ]Chumba HX1[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/93388219@N00/ ]srbwilson[/url], on Flickr

Can't see anything on On One.
I got the Lynskey from CRC. They haven't got a large in stock, so I'll try for a refund as I don't want to either wait for one or wait for mine to be repaired.

Shops are closed on Monday and I was going to travel down to Bristol on Friday.
That give me three days to sort something out.
If there's anywhere local that has got a 29er hardtail with SRAM XX available for test ride, I would seriously consider buying it.

Bummer, What about a Curtis in T45 steel, struggle to break that!

Pick 29er geo you like and get them to build it.

Swifts seem well made and the Pegasus too but you may not want Ti now.

I know Nicolai's are overbuilt, mine is seemingly indestructible, the Argon 29er is a very nice piece of kit and can be custom, although there are stock options which would be necessary for Mayhem.

I'd seriously have a look at Nicolai, tap up 18bikes on that front or Moonglu in Ripon.

Anyways, see you at Bikefest (I'm doing a pair there for charity) and Mayhem, which I'm doing solo cos it seems crazy!

Currently waiting for a Titus X-Carbon from On-One for both...otherwise Mayhem on my Nicolai Helius AM might be a bit of an effort.

Chumba looks nice. Ally is usually deliberately overbuilt due to the fatigue cycles.

Just checking: how much seat post have you typically got in the seat tube? Is it a fairly tight fit or is it really only being held by the clamp. Is the very end of the post below the bottom of the weld points for the top-tube and seat stays? If the seat post is not so deep and you sit a lot, it might not be able to cope with the leverage from your strong pedal strokes. Similarly, if the post is loose in the tube and only really held at the clamp = lots of leverage. It's a theory.

It's a theory asked in the very first reply and answered soon after...

I'd certainly be sending that back, 95kg isn't [i]that[/i] much and I doubt you ride it that hard, you talk about riding a reasonable amount on the road, any frame should be able to handle that!

Depends how much you wana spend 🙂

http://www.paulscycles.co.uk/products.php?plid=m1b0s154p3510

Si, Chumba looks nice, but if I'm buying a frame only, it needs sliding dropouts or an EBB for the Rohloff.
I have my suspicions that if I try XX I will prefer it to the Rohloff for racing, but as I haven't got any derailleurs to swap over, I need either a Rohloff frame or a XX complete bike by the end of the week.

Chainline, some names to research there. Ideally I'd like to sort it this week, which probably means sticking with mainstream suppliers and whatever they've got in stock.

It took some wriggling and twisting to get out, it definitely wasn't loose.

[img] [/img]

Hx1 and hx2 (29er) are both EBB frames.

Nicolai or Chumba then..

http://www.on-one.co.uk/c/q/big-summer-sale

And scroll down to the Van Nic frames. Don't know if that's any use?

Nicolai sounds like a plan. Head for the Hills (Dorking) ha a good range if you want to buy now.

Not convinced by XX - new XTR is a lot nicer and less plasticky.

GB

Must be down to your riding style, i'm heavier than you and have never broken a frame. I ride 29ers and historically most of my bikes have been ridden with a 400mm post at full extension with no problems.

Getting out of the saddle more over the bumpy stuff will take a lot of pressure of the area that you keep breaking frames in.

Sorry Si, I should have spotted the bigger BB hole, I was looking for the EBB its self.
There's no reinforcing tube to triangulate the seat stay and chain stay near the brake mount. In 1st gear a Rohloff puts 98% of the drive torque through the speedbone/caliper mount in the opposite direction.
How confident are you that it would stand up to the torque reaction of a Rohloff hub with my reputation ? 😛

A bit more searching and I've found [url= http://www.twowheelscycles.com/cannondale/cannondale-2011-mtb.html ]Two Wheels Cycles at Stourbridge have got Cannondale Flash Hi Mods[/url]. I've always liked the idea of a Lefty fork.

Hmmm, I can't decide.
Spending £4000+ on a Cannondale within the next week without doing any proper research is a bit spontaneous, even for me.
£400 on a Chumba frame seems a bit more sensible. I like the full length seat tube and curved top tube with triangulation. It looks a much stronger design.
What's the outside face of the caliper mount look like ? Is it dead flat as that would make it easier to mount the Rohloff Speedbone ?

No suggestions on frames, but if your riding style is mostly seated, it might be worth considering investing in a thudbuster as a frame saver.

Gee, if that Van Nic Zion was a 29er, I'd be tempted.

Mr Tall, I ride marathons and 3 hour trailquests (did I mention I ride trailquests ?) and I can't stand up to pedal for that long. I tend to sit down and spin away steadily at a fairly high cadence.

I'll have to check the caliper mount. I have known at least one other HX2 used with a Rohloff and not heard of any issues, but can't be sure.

Not sure about the lack of brace on seat/chain stay, not aware of any alloy HT frames with that brace? It's pretty burly back there though.

Graham - a Cannondale Flash hi mod is a pared down xc race frame. If you're breaking frames I'd avoid superlight carbon...

Nicolai still looks the best to me.

GB

Maybe try using a more flexible seat post - a ti one will take some pressure off the frame. Ti saddle rails may also help to some extent. Thompson posts are pretty rigid.

I have a four month old Niner Air 9 which is solid, I'm 120Kg and it handles everything thrown at it, that said I'm loving my Rumblefish 2 more and may well sell the Niner, looking around £1600 with X9 build, Hope X2's etc etc....

convert what you have now and race for fun. take your time finding the best long term solution.

Still following links and looking at options.

Chumba's website shows the HX2 with a conventional diamond frame, only the HX1 has got the dropped top tube and brace.
http://www.chumbaracing.com/hx2.shtml

If the caliper mount isn't flat, I can probably get round it.
A Gary Fisher Rig mount looks like this.
[url= http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5163/5292857010_86886d1e21_m.jp g" target="_blank">http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5163/5292857010_86886d1e21_m.jp g"/> [/img][/url]
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/8805115@N04/5292857010/ ]Picture 011[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/8805115@N04/ ]Vegan Graham[/url], on Flickr

I modified the Speedbone to suit, like this.
[url= http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5045/5292855740_1b3cb893f1_m.jp g" target="_blank">http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5045/5292855740_1b3cb893f1_m.jp g"/> [/img][/url]
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/8805115@N04/5292855740/ ]Picture 013[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/8805115@N04/ ]Vegan Graham[/url], on Flickr

Tell me about Tapered zero stack head tubes. Can I just get a different headset to fit my regular 1 1/8" forks ?

Gee, that's the thing with carbon. Is it indestructible and ever lasting, or is it fragile and likely to snap without warning. Depends who you ask and their own experiences. Maybe I shouldn't take the chance.

Nicolai looks nice, with a Gates belt drive option too.

wot IanMunro said, thudbuster - or else get a 29er FS (anthem ?, once they sort out the pricing 🙄 )

just happens that i have a large HX2 at home so have taken a few snaps for you. Mount is flat, but i don't know much about the whole Rohloff thing.

You can get Head sets to fit tapered and run a 1 1/8 fork, Hope do one and i think i have a few in stock too.

[url= http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3314/5772336655_93f12b0318_z.jp g" target="_blank">http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3314/5772336655_93f12b0318_z.jp g"/> [/img][/url]
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/93388219@N00/5772336655/ ]Chumba HX2[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/93388219@N00/ ]srbwilson[/url], on Flickr

[url= http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3468/5772885874_d0cdc92929_z.jp g" target="_blank">http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3468/5772885874_d0cdc92929_z.jp g"/> [/img][/url]
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/93388219@N00/5772885874/ ]Chumba HX2[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/93388219@N00/ ]srbwilson[/url], on Flickr

[url= http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2520/5772343087_b805aa5c92_z.jp g" target="_blank">http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2520/5772343087_b805aa5c92_z.jp g"/> [/img][/url]
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/93388219@N00/5772343087/ ]Chumba HX2[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/93388219@N00/ ]srbwilson[/url], on Flickr

[url= http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2178/5772888070_f8a600754f_z.jp g" target="_blank">http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2178/5772888070_f8a600754f_z.jp g"/> [/img][/url]
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/93388219@N00/5772888070/ ]Chumba HX2[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/93388219@N00/ ]srbwilson[/url], on Flickr

[url= http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3313/5772350775_db22e65863_z.jp g" target="_blank">http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3313/5772350775_db22e65863_z.jp g"/> [/img][/url]
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/93388219@N00/5772350775/ ]Chumba HX2[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/93388219@N00/ ]srbwilson[/url], on Flickr

Graham, the US website, is still showing last years version of the HX2, the new HX2 is the same as the HX1 in Simons photograph.

I should have mine here by the middle of the week 😉

I'm changing from an old Rig to the Chumba as I'm worried that the frame is going to go the same way as yours are.

Here's one of Simons photos from Flickr

[img] [/img]

I've ordered a medium size as they have nice long top tubes like the Rigs do.

Snap Simon beat me to it 😉

Anybody thought to suggest that you might be the major problem rather than the frame? Ever thought why the vast majority if riders are standing up when they go downhill (not just the 'trail centre rider' - proper riders too)

I'm sure Two Wheels will have something suitable in stock, dunno if they are open tomorrow

Thats nice if you like ugly bikes 🙂

Can you not make your ss inti rohloff ? Its a lynskey too isnt it - then buy a replacement after the event

Id be warey of jumping on a new bike so close to event ! One waytrip to injury city that is !

what's the recommended fork length on the HX2 Si?

For a LARGE 29er frame i think the HX2 is not bad looking 😉

RD, Fork travel 100-120mm.

Noreason to stand up on bridleways and fire roads etc really .....

I only stand when the goin gets rough.

Seen quite a few lynskeys go here ( i also own one ) saw a few rigs go in a similar place ( i own one of them too - although both mine are un broken )

Nicolai has also embraced Rohloff from day one, they know what they are doing.

You might like this, lots of useful info and pics.

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=341298

You can also run a lefty too if you really wanted.

Nicolai fit the Rohloff specific dropouts so no need for the EBB or a speedbone, but if you want to run regular gears no problem.
They ride great.

Timing might be an issue, as so close to the races but as a long term frame, its probably pretty hard to beat.

Several large 29ers look better 😉

Agree on the new bike so close to the event, ha, although I will be building my Titus on the Thursday and racing on the Saturday with Mayhem a week later....all good fun..

Nicolai look up to job but look a tad harsh out back what with em hulking box sections !

Perhaps a short travel full sus or a flex tail like the old litespeed would be better for you if you dont want a thudbuster to save the frame ?

So many replies, I'll try to respond to them all.

Thudbuster, yes, I've considered that, although I'd like to test one first.
Flex tail or soft tail, I think that might be the ideal solution for me. Again, I'd like to test ride one first.
Titanium seat post and saddle rails, sounds like they would help and worth looking in to.

Converting the Kona to Rohloff is the easiest, quickest and cheapest option. I like having a "race bike" and a "commute bike" though and I like having a spare bike to take to marathons. But then, it's probably the best way to get a Rohloff sorted for Bristol with time to test ride and fettle.

geordiemick00, if I decide to go for a derailleur bike, I may be interested.

Rik, I'm not trying to stir up the trail centre versus bridleway debate again, not here anyway 😉
I do stand up while descending, what I meant was I tend to cover long distances on bridleways. While other people are sitting down to pedal up smooth fire roads or standing for technical descents, I'm sitting down to pedal across a bumpy flat field.

The 3rd frame I broke was a Gary Fisher Rig.
It was only 7 months old when I cracked it, but I'm not the original owner, so it's not covered by warranty.
I've been told of a local aluminium welder who's good on frame repairs.
I've been meaning to see about getting it repaired for a while. If I can get hold of him and if he can do it this week, that would be another quick easy option as I've run it with a Rohloff in the past.

[img] [/img]

[img] [/img]

[img] [/img]

Si, if I do end up going for a new frame, a Chumba is looking most likely.

I wasn't meaning to be derogatory at all, but your not that heavy and your breaking frames in 'easy' terrain.

What would it be like if you rode week in week out in rocky terrain like the Peaks or Lakes etc.

But it does sound like you need a thudbuster or work on your technique.

don't suppose you're running them with longer fork than specified ?
(more stress on a slacker seat-tube ?)

TBH, I'd get something with a lifetime warranty

100mm or 80mm forks, as intended.

If I was riding somewhere steeper and rockier, I would stand up a lot more.
It's probably the fact that it is rolling, grassy countryside round here that's causing the problem.

Uplink, Lynskey have a lifetime warranty. I broke it in 11 months.
Gary Fisher have a lifetime warranty. I broke it in 7 months.

To be fair - rig frames were notorious for it ! I think i mist have the last purple 19 inch in existance thats no cracked 🙂

Uplink, Lynskey have a lifetime warranty. I broke it in 11 months.
Gary Fisher have a lifetime warranty. I broke it in 7 months.

for replacement purposes, not longevity

I meant something that you can claim on and get a new frame in a reasonable time, where it doesn't have to be shipped to the other side of the world for repair

You didn't have a warranty on the GF though

You need to change your technique or go for a short travel FS frame, you will just kill another hardtail.

Personally, I would dump the Rohloff and go geared, it will massively widen the choice of frames you have.

[url= http://www.charliethebikemonger.com/salsa-spearfish-29er-full-suspension-frame-692-p.asp ]Considered a Salsa Spearfish?[/url]

I see what you mean, uplink.
Is there any frame and shop combination where you can just walk in and say "I broke my frame yesterday" and walk straight back out with a brand new replacement ?

Partyboy, I don't see it as my responsibility to adapt my riding style to suit a weak frame.

I don't see it as my responsibility to adapt my riding style to suit a weak frame

Well, expect more broken frames then 🙄

Lookin at the failure on your lynskey - where does the reaction force from the hoff go ?

Up the stay to about there im thinking - without seeing your set up mind just relating to my td1 set up

Doesnt look like the normal failure mode for a seat post/ rider weight related failure ..... Im jist guessing though i havnt done any maths though

Btw in non extreme mud and snow youll go much faster on gears - thats scientific 😉 i bought mine for the fit an forget ability but i do still prefer to race with deraileurs - they are nicer to ride no doubt about it !

How about a surly km - pretty burly?

Just a thought, but how central is your seat on the post, ie are you sat with your weight 'behind' the post?

Are you running layback or a straight post?

trail_rat - Member
To be fair - rig frames were notorious for it ! I think i mist have the last purple 19 inch in existance thats no cracked

Regarding the original purple Rig, mine is a 17.5 I'm 6'2" and 115Kg and it's still going, but I'm getting worried about it's longevity!

Just get a Ventana now. You don't really have to be over 40.
You'll end up at the door of Riverside Cycles anyway cracking all these frames. It's inevitable. It really is.
🙂

I have the no for a chap in B'ham who can repair Ti...

Given the options you have available to you, I'd buy a Chumba HX2 asap, get it built and ride it. Send your lynskey back and get the replacement (reminding them it might be wise to beef up the frame slightly!) back asap. Then you either sell the Chumba (and maybe lose 150 quid tops), or sell the lynskey as brand new (losing 200 quid or so over CRC's price).

Most damage limiting option that still leaves you with 2 bikes to ride IMO.

Graham, just do what takisawa said...........ventana.

also..........hoe the **** do you break so many frames.
i have had more 29r bikes than anyone i know on here and i weigh 130kilo, and i have never damaged a frame.

learn to ride proper mate.................. 😆

Kingtut, I rode Wiggle 6 on a SS. I might yet buy a bigger sprocket and switch classes at Bristol. 😉

Partyboy, why is it so unreasonable to expect a mountain bike frame with a lifetime warranty to last more than a year ? Nobody stands up to pedal for a full three hour trailquest, let alone a 12 hour marathon.

Trail Rat, the reaction force goes through the Rohloff specific dropout.
Normally I would expect a crack to start at a weld. These two are odd in that they go across the welds and along the top tube. The Gary Fisher crack looks like it was caused by fore & aft flexing, the Lynskey cracks look like they were caused by sideways flexing.

Clink, Surley looks good, but Chumba is still my favourite.

takisawa2,it's under warranty, so I'm not looking for independent repairers.

Mboy, that's one solution, it's just that having heard of other people breaking Lynskeys, and having heard of them going back to America for repair rather than just getting a new replacement off the shelf at CRC, I'd prefer a refund.

Ton, I don't claim to be a particularly fast rider and I know there's heavier riders than me out there, but I think it's fair to say there's few people who match me for speed, distance and weight.
According to my Garmin, which admittedly is probably not accurate, I was using 1000Kcal an hour for over 11 hours yesterday.
My suspicion is that bike manufacturers count on riders being either lightweight racing snakes doing high mileage, or chubby duffers doing one lap of a trail centre on Sundays.
Someone should employ me as a test rider to give their kit a proper hammering. 😀

that's me told eh?

get a surly k monkey............you will not break that.

Mboy, that's one solution, it's just that having heard of other people breaking Lynskeys, and having heard of them going back to America for repair rather than just getting a new replacement off the shelf at CRC, I'd prefer a refund.

I'd totally agree there, but looking at your frame and how it has gone, there's no way they'll repair that. They'll send you a new frame. Repairs usually happen to peripheral damage (a gusset or a dropout perhaps) but yours looks too far in to repair.

I know several people now who wouldn't touch Lynskey with a bargepole. One friend snapped his (2nd warranty replacement after 2 more broken frames) Lynskey built Cove Hummer in it's first ride out... He's 11 1/2 stone and it was an XC race!

I've broken 4 frames in 13 months

And you think thats solely down to weak frames and not the way you ride?

Someone should employ me as a test rider to give their kit a proper hammering

Get your riding CV out there, you've got nothing to lose and everything to gain by the sounds of things!

If you genuinely ride as much as you do, and break as much kit, you'll eventually find someone to help you out no doubt as there's always new companies starting out, looking for feedback and advice etc. You just need to find someone bringing a new 29er to the Market!

lol at kingtut

It's a theory asked in the very first reply and answered soon after..

Well sometimes people post at more-or-less the same time. So don't be an ars3 about it, eh?

The Chumba looks good IMO

chubby duffers doing one lap of a trail centre on Sundays.

*puts hand up

'4 frames in 13 months'?
I mustn't be trying hard enough obviously. I've been riding 21 years & I've probably been well overweight for most of that. Never broke a frame but admittedly only ride the Yorky Dales, North Yorky Moors, North Pennines, Scotland, Peaks, 3 Alps trips...
You really do need to adapt your riding style or expect more of the same.
Or ride a carthorse.

And you think thats solely down to weak frames and not the way you ride?

I'd go along with Graham there! Some of the frames he is mentioning are susceptible to having issues with cracking.

if you can find one a 2010 Rig is a tough build.

I weigh more than you and less than Ton and it seems to be a frame designed to correct the faults of the purple/black/white Rigs

The Chumba looks nice, based on your requirements it's worth a punt

kona hoss...................probably the strongest mtb frame ever.

and i had a chumba hx2 29r...........lovely build and ride....i just did not get on with it.

esselgruntfuttock, I don't know what sort of riding you do, but from what I've seen of Alps riding, it's chairlift up, followed by bouncing down over big rocks.
The bikes that are designed for that seem to cope with it very well.
What I'm having trouble with is not the sudden impact of a big jump, because I don't do that sort of riding, but longer term fatigue cracks caused by constant flexing while pedalling, sitting down over moderately bumpy ground.

You sure your seat position isn't too high, causing lateral sway at the bottom of the pedal stroke?

graham and at 22 stone, i have to sit down to ride for 90% of the time.

You really do need to adapt your riding style or expect more of the same.

I don't think it's unreasonable to expect to be able to buy something strong enough for even the hardest of riders personally, the trade off is that the harder you ride the heavier the kit needs to be in general. You'd not expect to do massive drop offs on XC rims and get away with it, nor ride season after season on a lightweight alloy frame without it suffering fatigue.

I'd go along with Graham there! Some of the frames he is mentioning are susceptible to having issues with cracking.

There is definitely an element of that, but given most of the kind of riding you say you do, you'd think Titanium with it's relatively high fatigue strength would be ideal. Maybe consider other Ti 29ers known to be a bit tougher/beefier?

I set my seat height by the old fashioned straight leg, heel on the pedal method. I seems about right and I'm not aware that I am rocking from side to side on the seat.
I use an inline seat post with the clamp near enough in the middle of the rails.

maybe give On One a call and see if they have any horizontal dropout Inbred 29ers lying around? Or put a wanted up. Steel frame so will be good in fatigue and easily repaired by any competent welder.

mboy, I think it's largely down to frame design.
That Chumba has got a 2.5" longer seat tube than the Lynskey for the same length top tube, and it's triangulated.
It just looks a better design.