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Hi all,
New 5 arrived yesterday but having a problem with the front wheel which does not appear to be running free atall. With scewer removed it runs ok but with what sounds like some rub from the pads to disc. With skewer inserted and fully tightened off the wheel barely spins atall. Can anyone help before I run it back to the shop?
Thanks
Just go back mate, their job to fix it.
Want kind of skewer is it?
If it's maxle you could over tightening and nipping the bearings.
Hi, I've got the maxle on the rear but am having the problem with my front wheel (standard screw in skewer)
front wheel which does not appear to be running free at all.
Hmmm, interesting.
...but with what sounds like some rub from the pads to disc.
Oh, really? Does your bike usually run free when the brakes are applied?
Hi, I've got the maxle on the rear but am having the problem with my front wheel (standard screw in skewer)
You have QR on the front yeah and bolt thru on the back is that right?
I was a bit confused buy that too.
Ok looking through you post history you went for the Fox 32s which means it's probably Maxle, my guess is your over tightening this and it's nipping the bearings.
I don't see how you could over tighten a Fox 32 15mm QR or a regular QR without superhuman strength (assuming that's what it's got).
It sounds like the front calliper needs proper aligning as it's fouling the disc pretty badly.
I don't see how you could over tighten a Fox 32 15mm QR or a regular QR without superhuman strength (assuming that's what it's got).
It's easy to do it enough to nip the bearings a little extra turning is all that is needed.
if its rubbing on the disc pads you may want to try centering the caliper?
Easy way to check if it's the brakes. Remove the calliper from the fork - if the wheel spins freely it's the brakes.
Thanks for all the helpful comments guys, just to clarify the issue is with my QR front wheel, I think it is a case of the calliper not being correctly aligned and so I will bob it into the shop tomorrow for a quick look. Will post up some pics too once I get a chance , really happy with apple green it's a lovely colour in the flesh ๐
CAn you overtighten Maxles? I've got a Maxle Lite on the front, and after finding it a bit loose with a bit of play at the end of the ride, I've been doing it up pretty bloody tight.
Not noticed the bearings being 'nipped up' though, and the wheel spins freely. How tight is too tight?
[i]I think it is a case of the calliper not being correctly aligned[/i]
Have you tried just undoing the caliper bolts, centre the caliper and retighten?
Ive never been able to 'nip up' cartridge bearings by over-tightening a skewer.
surely the first thing to check is whether the pistons have been pushed in while the wheel hads been removed ?
just use a flat blade to push the pads back and pop the wheel back in and see if there's still a problem.
surely the first thing to check is whether the pistons have been pushed in while the wheel hads been removed ?
Thanks man tried this to no avail, also just removed the caliper and the wheel spins freely so deffo a issue with the pads. I tried to reposition the caliper but no amount of fiddling could stop the pads rubbing on the disc.
Just wondering, could it simply be a case on needing to wear in the pads to the disc? Arrrghhh I just want to ride the damn thing ๐ก
How did you get the bike home? Have you had the front wheel off and accidentally pressed the front brake lever? Sounds like the pistons just need pushing back. Have you had hydraulic brakes before?
Hi, actually I did remove the front wheel to transport home - not had hydraulic brakes before what do you recommend I use to push the pistons back and best way o do this (sorry I'm new to them)!
best to remove the pads and find something to lever the pistons back in.something plastic rather than metal.They should go in very easily.If they dont,you might be pushing them in off-square.Try a different point on the piston if you find this.
Dont lever the pad material.You will either mark it,chip it or possibly delaminate the pad.
Just take it back to the shop and get them to sort it out.
Might be best to take it back and let the shop sorted it if you're not that familuar with hydros. Just tell them you may have pressed the lever with the wheel off.
Ask them if they've got a plastic pad spacer lying around for when you transport your bike. You fit this into the calliper and it stops the pads closing up if the brake is accidentally pressed.
Dont lever the pad material.You will either mark it,chip it or possibly delaminate the pad
not the best advice IMO. use something plastic between the pads as someone else advised. if you start pushing back the pistons themselves you risk damaging those. i know which i'd rather replace...
when the time comes to replace the pads with new you'll have the old ones to work on ( and then you can use pretty much anything you like to push them back ).
i'd suggest you get yerself a copy of 'zinn and the art of mountainbike maintenance', or something along those lines. it'll give you a good heads up on these sorts of things.
nice bike, but the combination of QR fork and maxle rear end is a bit odd? won't do you any harm though. ๐
have fun.
Use a smallish flat blade screwdriver to post the pistons back in. You will probably need to alternate between pistons a few times to get them home fully. Put the wheel back in and try it, if it's still binding, loosen the caliper bolts slightly, pull the brake lever firmly, then tighten the bolts back up. This should center the caliper for you, at least enough to ride it anyhow
Plastic tyre lever is ideal for pushing the pistons back in. If you're that hamfisted pushing pistons back in that you might break them you should avoid spanners!! ๐
have you tried centering the caliper? Easier with an assistant-
1) loosen caliper bolts half a turn so caliper can move
2) spin front wheel
3) pull on front brake
4) whilst holding front brake on, tighten caliper bolts
5) release front brake
6) spin front wheel and rejoice in rub-free silent spinning
SOunds like it's just brake adjustment. But just to weigh in, there is absolutely no way in hell you can overtighten a QR15 enough to "nip up" a Pro 2, unless one of the bearings isn't seated properly. But that's not very likely.
I tend to centre the caliper by eye so the disc is slap back in the middle of the caliper gap, rather than relying on the pistons to centre the caliper. If the pads have uneven wear or you have a lazy piston, its never going to work!
Thanks again for all the feedback, took the bike for a good ride out today and the problem seemed to get better although there is still a slight rub audible when skewer is in place.
It came with 6 weeks free service so willl bob it In at the weekend for a look as the middle cog is also making a gnarly noise following the ride today.
Cheers again all, very friendly site this!
the middle cog is also making a gnarly noise following the ride today
Was it muddy? If so.... give it a good scrub.
If the chain is rubbing against the front mech:
1. shift into the biggest ring at the back
2. shift into the middle at the front
Does the chain rub against the front mech? if so continue to A, if not continue to B:
[b]A.[/b] Twist the left-hand shifter barrel adjuster away from you, so clockwise, if you look from the side with your head near the stem. This will ease the front mech away from the chain. Do that a quarter-turn at a time until it doesn't scrape, but right on the edge of scraping/not scraping.
Finished.
[b]B.[/b] Shift into the smallest cog on the rear
Does the chain rub against the front mech? if so:
i) twist the barrel adjuster on the left hand shifter toward you, so anti-clockwise if you look at it from the stem. Do this a quarter turn at a time, this will pull the mech away from the chain. Stop when the chain isn't rubbing against the mech, but only just.
That'll sort out the front mech for you ๐
Was it muddy? If so.... give it a good scrub.If the chain is rubbing against the front mech:
1. shift into the biggest ring at the back
2. shift into the middle at the frontDoes the chain rub against the front mech? if so continue to A, if not continue to B:
A. Twist the left-hand shifter barrel adjuster away from you, so clockwise, if you look from the side with your head near the stem. This will ease the front mech away from the chain. Do that a quarter-turn at a time until it doesn't scrape, but right on the edge of scraping/not scraping.
Finished.
B. Shift into the smallest cog on the rear
Does the chain rub against the front mech? if so:
i) twist the barrel adjuster on the left hand shifter toward you, so anti-clockwise if you look at it from the stem. Do this a quarter turn at a time, this will pull the mech away from the chain. Stop when the chain isn't rubbing against the mech, but only just.
That'll sort out the front mech for you
Really useful post this thanks for the info dude!
Orange 5 owner in 'dont know how it works' shocker. ๐
What made you go for the 5 instead of, well, anything else?
STW sub-[s]BUY A FIVE[/s]-liminal messaging?
i have apple green five too.....good choice
http://www.flickr.com/photos/23692229@N07/4801931485/in/photostream
Good choice for an STW sheep.
Why do so many people feel the need to belittle other peoples bikes or bike purchases on here? Is it envy or are there just a load of intolerant killjoys residing on here?
I personally wouldn't buy a Five but can understand why lots of people would and do buy them. Each to their own I say.
OP good luck with getting the brakes sorted. Sounds like you might just have to run them for a bit and wear the pads down.
you need an orange 'five' in this neck 0 woods ...believe me !
year after year the 'five' gets 10/10 in Mbr magazine and thats for the last five years running !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ๐