I have recently purchased a new Lyrik coil u turn fork. Just not sure what the best settings are for rebound, high speed & low speed compression. I’m 12 stone 7lbs (probably 13 stone all kitted-up). I intend on using the fork for mainly trail riding, where only occasionally do both wheels leave the ground. So, is there anyone out there who is experienced with this fork and could advice me on a few settings. also, has anyone tried removing the floodgate and is anyone my weight using a lighter (yellow-soft) spring? And if so, what do you think?

Many thanks,

Dan

Hi dan,

What bike are you using it on? I ran the same fork for a while and it’s now on my brothers bike, I really rate them. I’m about your weight and used the stock spring on a ht but could have gone for something firmer on a fs. I run my forks hard though. I reckon a good starting point is high speed compression pretty much all the way off, rebound as quick as you can without it feeling like a pogo stick and low speed compression almost all the way on. That worked for me anyway. If you tend to lean back more than ride the front then you could probably back off the low speed compassion a bit.

Hope that helps!

This might help at bit 😀

http://locotuning.co.uk/tech-info.html

With the coil – take the RS guide and throw it away…. Use a spring rate that is one less than you are meant to seems to be the synopsis.

MTBR has a few good threads on Lyriks. Id say your probably a Medium Red Spring at that rate. I am 14and a half and just moved into firm spring when the guide reckons I should be on X-firm.

I think I read it was 4-4-1-6 Hi-Low-Floodgate-Rebound (from slow) was a good place to start. The RS site has a guide on the Mission Control Damper.

PDF for Mission Control – unless you have MiCo DH

i use x firm spring in mine 🙂

Jedi – have you tried lighter or are you blowing through that on your mad drops?

i get full travel occassionally. feels awesome

carbon337 – Member

With the coil – take the RS guide and throw it away…. Use a spring rate that is one less than you are meant to seems to be the synopsis.

Ooh, dunno about that, I’m at the lower end of the weight they recommend for a soft (yellow) spring and it’s just barely stiff enough, think I’d be better on a medium though, certainly extra soft would be no use to me.

Springs and rebound I understand it’s the 2 types of compression I find confusing and the different terms people use don’t help and don’t seem to marry up with the guides
+ -,Hard soft,On off for example…sometimes in the same post!
My Lyrik is a coil MICO DH without a floodgate,standard spring I presume which should be right for my weight 12 stone .Read the SRAM guide and Read LOCOs guide,still confused and the usual advice of “try it till you find what’s right on your usual rides” isn’t always that helpful really. Don’t fancy trying 40 runs down Spooky wood trying out most of the possible combinations .Well don’t fancy the push ups 🙂 Also coming from a Fox 32 air spring on my previous bike makes what feels right a bit difficut to determine.

Thanks guys so far. I’m using it on a Cotic bfe frame if that’s any more help. Been for two rides and it is def better than my Pike, it’s just that I can’t get full travel (about 20-30 mm left of travel) and was therefore wondering about a softer spring, but I think I’ll try 0 hsc and see how I get on. Many thanks for the quick replies guys

There was a discussion on here a few days ago and ‘bracketing’ setup was suggested as a starting point. The search thing might bring it up.

I have the DH damper too in a coil and find it pretty good.

Slow Speed compression is for just that slow speed hits when the fork is moving slow + on the slow gives more resistance on slow speed travel.

High Speed is for high speed hits – like riding into a rock or a big drop – when the fork is moving fast. + on the fas tgives more resistance to the high speed travel.

Stick them to about +4 clicks on both and you will be fine.

Like I said about the spring – try one less – normally find them floating on here for about 25 – 30 quid. Especially of your not landing big drops etc I think there is definite room to run a lesser spring rate. How is your sag?

Thanks Carbon337, Sat on saddle and sag is about 15% if I stand up and lean over the bars I get about 25% so do u think worth trying a yellow (soft) spring?

Oh, hey… Bigdan, assuming you have a red (standard) spring, I could do you a straight swap for a yellow (soft), if you fancy it.

mtbr thread i started about weight and spring rate

Carbon- thanks for the thread. I’ve actually weighed myself with all my kit on and it’s 188lbs, which would take me into the ‘firm’ category, so, applying your rule I am already using one-down with the stock medium spring. So cautious about trying softer now (sorry northwind).

I may remove the floodgate, as suggest in your thread Carbon and also roll-off the hsc a little bit more. Maybe speed up the rebound a little as well and go from there.

Many thanks again guys.

Just been for a ride and still not quite getting full travel, despite really trying to take rough lines down a fairly rocky peak district track. It does feel good on repeated step-downs but small bump sensitivity isn’t really any better than my Pike fork. I’ve tried with compression off, but it doesn’t appear to help. Static sag sat down is 15-20mm. Whilst leaning over the bars it’s about 35mm. Any views on what’s going on?

Has anyone removed the floodgate and if so, what has it done to the performance of the fork??

Alot of the MTBR lot have done the mod, mine came with the Dh damper so can’t comment. Quite a few guides about on how to do it. Your sag still sounds quite low as in maybe a bit too stiff to me. You paid for 160 travel fork so use it all. I was on a medium spring at 200lb ish and I’ve only changed to firm when doing bigger drops.

What’s your low speed compression on?

Supposed to make them respond better to small bumps and a bit ‘plusher’.

Silicon on the stantions may help as well as up ending the forks for a while before a ride if you don’t already.

Thanks guys; I’m running 4 clicks of Low speed compression, 2-3 High speed compression and 4 clicks of rebound (from fully slow). I’ve tried 6 clicks and it feels a bit like a pogo stick. The floodgate mod, sounds interesting, as does the lighter spring. May try doing it in that order.

The floodgate mod’s easy to do and is fully reversible unless you manage to damage or lose something while doing it. I’m not a reliable witness, I changed other stuff at the same time like a fool so I couldn’t tell you exactly what improvements came from tweaking the fork and what came from the mod but it certainly ended up feeling more supple and I’m not missing the lockout, so far.

Anyone else removed the floodgate and would like to explain how it changed the behaviour of the fork. I’m interested to know if it felt better over small, fast, bump sensitivity?

It just feels much better over the high frequency chattery type terrain, it’s a good mod.

Here’s the Linky
1/2 hour in the garage with a large spanner and some circlip pliers if I recall!

I also use juicy lubes fork juice, seems to help on the bigger forks.

Thanks tcas146. I’ll give it a whirl!

I’ve phoned tftuned and am going to send it back to them to have a look at. Not happy with the fork. My Pushed-Pike is better, so there must be something wrong with the Lyrik

Explanation of compression & rebound.

[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f1Jlw4I22ag[/video]

I have a medium that I would like to swap for a soft if your still interested Northwind?

I ended up getting a medium from the classifieds which seems spot on in the Mmmbop, I’ll be putting the forks back in the Hemlock and assuming they work OK in that I’ll have the soft spring to sell I reckon

How much for the soft spring?

any more tips for anew to mission control lyrik owner?

carbon337 – Member

With the coil – take the RS guide and throw it away…. Use a spring rate that is one less than you are meant to seems to be the synopsis.

Just going back to this- I’ve ended up with a medium when Rockshox recommend a soft, and it’s just right. YMMV, I’m sure usage plays a part

Best tip so far, stick a Mission Control DH cartridge in.
Transforms an already great fork into the best fork ever!!!!!…..

Has anyone on here been able to a/b the Mission Control DH, with a standard MC cartridge with the poploc removed?

I’m about the same weight as the op, I had a lyrik coil 170 dh running the medium spring. I ran mine with about two clicks of low speed compression and no high speed.

I’ve changed to a totem coil, medium spring and I run pretty much the same settings. I use full travel or 95% maybe once a run on a dh track and wouldn’t be concerned if I didn’t.

carbon337

Slow Speed compression is for just that slow speed hits when the fork is moving slow + on the slow gives more resistance on slow speed travel.

I don’t really agree with that explanation – I think of lsc as rider/gravity input, ie if you are riding down something steep or flying round a big berm more lsc will mean the fork will sit higher in it’s travel.

Rock shox recommend this as the starting point (4/4/1)

http://www.sram.com/_media/pdf/tuning_guides/missioncontrol_tuningguide_en.pdf

Whao uses what combo for trail riding ( i am 13 stone kitted out) riding predominantly in the Peak District

running a lyrik now cruzheckler?

twohats

how much is it to fit a DH mission control cartidge, and do you get 170mm of travel?

Has anyone on here been able to a/b the Mission Control DH, with a standard MC cartridge with the poploc removed?

Yes, removing the poploc gives the same very active feeling as the DH cartridge, but it can’t handle high speed hits and blows through its travel at speed.
The DH cartridge is a very different beast to the original, super active on the small bumps and very impressive big bump performance with no spiking. you also seem to arrive at corners a whole lot faster than before as the fork just seems to steamroller the terrain!
The DH cartridge is a whole lot lighter too compared to the stock one.

how much is it to fit a DH mission control cartridge, and do you get 170mm of travel?

I’m not sure of the retail cost as I got mine at trade price!
The cartridge is just a direct replacement for the original and has nothing to do with the travel of the fork.
It also takes about 2 minutes to fit!

18bbikes – yup, £210 off a bloke in sheffield was a bargain for a virtually unused coil uturn 🙂