Viewing 40 posts - 1 through 40 (of 46 total)
  • Santa cruz superlight – show and tell. How tough are they?
  • stooo
    Free Member

    Show me you SC superlight builds.

    Currently riding a trek fuel ex. Fancy something lighter and like the simplicity of single pivot (got a bullit too).

    Will big for big epic days, marathon racing, but also need to handle black route trail centre technical stuff like Innerleithen. I don't like out n out xc race bikes that are flexy and steep. I want comfy, fast pedalling, able to charge up hills and bd a blast coming down so long as ive got a bit of finesse.

    Am I asking too much of a 100 travel bike?

    Superlight could be the answer, looks a bit tough than a blur?

    Like the sound of orange ST4 but seems a bit heavy.

    Proposed tough but light build…
    Reba XX maxle 120mm
    X0 kit
    Monkey lite bars
    Hope race brakes
    717 rims with 2.25 schwalbe tyres
    Joplin post
    Dues cranks
    80mm stem.

    So any views?

    shortcut
    Full Member

    I wouldn't want to do Inners on mine. Not sure whether its coz I have a five spot which is more suitable.

    Have done the welsh centres on the superlight but think the boulders are a bit bigger in Scotland. And I am no lightweight so would probably ride the superlight slower than the spot.

    aviemoron
    Free Member

    I had one of the first SLights and it was fab; it was raced and properly mountain ridden up here in the Cairngorms and from what I here the latest ones are way stiffer than my old thing (which was a bit flexy, but I never noticed at the time!) no probs with Inners/Laggan Black/Golspie as long as you remember it's a light xc platform. If yer a "hucker" go with the Heckler.

    stooo
    Free Member

    Bag, there'll be no hucking on it, I've got the bullit for that.

    It's the new one I'm thinking of. Looks like a baby light weight heckler.

    nuke
    Full Member

    Having had both, I'd keep the EX (..or consider something else like an Anthem X). The quality of the suspension felt much better on the EX…less prone to pedal bob, no brake jack on long rough descents, a more bottomless suspension feel. None of these points were that detrimental to the ride on the SL and don't get me wrong as I'm not saying the suspension on the SL was bad, it's just more that the suspension on the EX was better 😕 . Plus my EX frame came in at 6.0lb and, whilst I didn't weigh the SL, I'm sure it wasn't that much lighter.

    tum-yeto
    Free Member

    Dont have one but i have had a go on one for a week or so, absolutely brilliant overall bike, fast uphill but still able to fly down too, was a 100 reba up front as well.

    i would recommend one to anyone looking for a light, relatively cheap decent full sus bike. and you can spec it up as you go.

    drain
    Full Member

    Sounds like a good build you have in mind there.

    I run Magura Durin Marathon 120mm on mine. The X0 kit should make a very light build possible. With X9 + XT on mine it was coming in at about 24.5 lbs (a little more now that it's gone tubeless). IIRC the frame weight is something like 5.2 lbs for the large.

    The 2.25" tyres steady things up significantly, imo, and make doing (Welsh) trails centres very doable – just need to pick a line more than just my usual thud and blunder on the VT so, as you say, some finesse needed. And it does climb beautifully, leaving you less knackered and so more able to concentrate on descents.

    I have heard great things about the EX. The SL's simplicity is a real plus point, it's required minimal maintenance. When I bought it, it was that and the mud clearance that edged it over the Anthem or the Top Fuel. More travel now on the Anthem would've made my decision even harder!

    stooo
    Free Member

    Thanks folks – there's some interesting points here.

    It'd be great to get a pedal on one… though I'm so used to my Bullit that I know I like single pivot… both the way it pedals and the simplicity for maintenance.

    Will have to ponder some more me thinks.

    KT1973
    Free Member


    Santa Cruz Superlight large size with Fox RP-23 in anodised blue (from 2007)
    Rock Shox Ream Team 120mm with Maxle light
    Front wheel DT Swiss 4.2 rim with Hope Pro 2 hub (ano blue)
    Rear wheel Mavic 717D on Hope Pro 2 (ano blue)
    Schwalbe Racing Ralph EVO folding 2.1" tyres
    Shimano XT M770 chainset + BB
    Shimano XTR M970 pedals
    Shimano XT M770 cassette
    SRAM PG 990 chain
    Shimano XT M761 rear derailleur (from previous build)
    Shimano XT M770 gear shifters
    Shimano XT M770 front derailleur
    New XT cables
    Race Face Next carbon low riser bars
    Lizard Skins Peaty lock on grips
    Easton EA70 90mm stem
    Cane Creek headset
    Charge Knife saddle
    now has thomson elite post & hope qr clamp
    and last but not least- Avid BB7 mech disks from old build

    couple of related topics

    jad
    Free Member

    Mine:

    Nice simple and light.

    stooo
    Free Member

    Nice looking machine KT… even the old ones still look good. Classic bike.

    stooo
    Free Member

    jad – that looks Luurvely, very like the build I'd be going for.

    How's it climb ? And more importantly, how lively can you get on the descents before you feel like you might brake it/ or it brake you ?

    jad
    Free Member

    I went from a 5" horst link frame to this and love it to be honest. Suits my XC roots and no more expensive bearing changes. I'm using a 120mm Reba fork which works really well with it.

    anotherstan
    Free Member

    [img]http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4077/4910946271_290a746b39_m.jpg[/img]

    http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4116/4910947693_36d0454ae2_m.jpg

    anotherstan
    Free Member

    errm… didn't mean to post that 😳

    i was still trying to edit the pics/ size etc. never mind eh?

    Zoolander
    Free Member

    I'm considering one myself .
    Anyone have any experience of if the shock upgrade is necessary? Um sure I read somewhere that the pivot design doesn't require a lock out/adjustable can?

    TimCotic
    Free Member

    I like your thinking Stooo. My SL has a 120mm Reba and I've been pretty pleased with it but I had noticed it understeer in tight singletrack and fast bends, so I've just fitted an 80mm stem instead of the 90 but I haven't had a chance to test it yet. I guess the other fix would be to have the fork travel reduced 5 or 10mm. *Note* KT's is the older model with flexier rear and bolt-on cross brace – it does look great and it rides nicely. However, the new design is easier to clean, waranteed for 120mm travel, and I'm told the older frames require more bearing maintenance so I'd go for the current curvy design which is about 3 years old. If you wanted a lighter fork, the SID comes in 120mm bolt-through flavour these days.
    PS. How do you put your bike pics on here?

    Kojaklollipop
    Free Member

    I treated myself to this in February 😀

    I have a 1999 Heckler and a 2002 Superlight still in use so I'm a big fan of the SC single pivot designs.

    The old Superlight is a great bike but I noticed that the new one has a stiffer rear end and burlier feeling frame, I can be a bit more careless with my lines on the new one and it makes a great all round bike. I've upgraded the forks to maxle rebas which really suit it and stiffens up the front even more. I found the standard shock to be fine, I've got a RP23 on another bike and can't really tell any difference, I think the stock Float R is set up well for the bike. It's fast up the hills, and fast down, a great all-day bike, and I reckon with some stronger wheels it would be fine on more downhill type trails.

    z1ppy
    Full Member

    I bought an 07 SL off a m8, who hadn't used it much (if at all), no current piccy's though (unless you count his orignal lightweight(ish) XC build)

    I'm running similar kit but with 115 U-Turn reba's, great bike but its at it sharpest at 100mm for the twisty stuff, so the U-Turn to me were the perfect compromise (as I can chop & change travel on the move). I was lusting after some Reba Maxle 120's but am happy now I saved my cash (and got Rev's for my other bike). Don't get me wrong it works fine at 115mm (or 120) but climbs better at 100mm and (as mentioned) on tight twist singletrack you can't beat it at 100mm IMO of course.

    Andy
    Full Member

    Agree with z1ppy, fantastic bike with 100mm on the front in tight twisty singletrack. Heres my 2008 XL. Everything is still the same except the X9 mecha nd shifters have been changed to XTR.


    No14 (2009)Dalby again by carlos_fandango, on Flickr


    No14 (2008) again by carlos_fandango, on Flickr

    zerolight
    Free Member

    Hey guys, I'm probably gonna order me a superlight frame tomorrow. I need to transfer as much kit off my old bike (a hardly used 2008 Kona Kula Deluxe). Pretty sure all I'll need is a headset, seat post, and some tools to get the chainset and BB off the Kula.

    Questions though:

    1. Do I need to get the frame faced and chased? Will Stif do that?

    2. I'm 6ft, maybe 6ft1. 33" inside leg. Does a Large frame sound about right? Looking to build up a comfy all day bike, good for single track, trails, and park rides with my 5yr old. 😀

    Thanks.

    Mattie_H
    Free Member

    5' 11" and 32" inside leg and I ride a medium.

    And with apologies for the slight hijack: I was thinking about switching to a shorter stem and wider bars (currently 90 mm stem and 610 mm carbon bars) to sharpen up the tight handling. Is this something that other people have done? Just wondering how the bike will ride with something like a 70 mm stem and c. 685 mm bars before I do anything foolish.

    Fantastic bikes btw: just back from a fortnight of some of the toughest / best riding I've ever done in Oregon and the SL soaked it all up. It's done big days out all over the UK and most of the north Wales trail centres without any problems

    shortcut
    Full Member

    6'2 here and on a large with loads of seatpost out. So yes!

    stooo
    Free Member

    Mattie_H

    I'd say try swapping the bars first. Swapping to a shorter stem will make those bars feel super narrow I reckon, where as you may find the wider bars are fine with that stem.

    I've always found an 80mm or 90mm stem to be spot on with 685 bars on XC style geometry (70deg HA)…. I tend to favour 685 bars.

    Mattie_H
    Free Member

    Good idea Stoo. I've been struggling to find 685 bars (which are what I have on other bikes and prefer) in standard diameter but will have another look.

    z1ppy
    Full Member

    Zerolight, 6ft2 (32" inside leg) here on a large

    anotherstan
    Free Member

    6ft 1" here, on a large. 70mm stem, 725mm bars …feels great 😀

    zerolight
    Free Member

    Thanks for the size info guys. 😀

    What about the chasing and facing – I'm tempted just to get the bike shop to fit a BB to it before the ship the frame. Doesn't seem to be anything wrong with my Race Face Deus XC BB though, other than that everyone says they are made of cheese.

    TimCotic
    Free Member

    Yep – get your bike shop to face the BB shell and fit a Hope. When I got mine two and a half years ago, I'd previously suffered from several very short-lived Shimano and Race Face external BBs. I've read that today's shimanos are much better than they were. When I got my SLX chainset about 6 months ago, I kept the Hope on the bike and just put the new SLX bb in the cupboard. Who knows – I may have to use it some day!

    zerolight
    Free Member

    Frame ordered with hope headset and bb. Never built up a bike before. Should be interesting.

    stooo
    Free Member

    Make sure you post up piccies when it's all done and we'll inspect your work 🙂

    z1ppy
    Full Member

    ZL bear in mind if you want to run full cable runs (always my preference) you need something like these, or drill/dremel out the cable stops.

    and err yes get some piccy's, & ummm I might try and get some done too.

    zerolight
    Free Member

    z1ppy. What the heck are those, and how do I use em?

    zerolight
    Free Member

    They for using with gears completely enclosed or for the hydraulics. If for gears, then I'm not too fussed just yet, but will keep in mind.

    brassneck
    Full Member

    I still have my 2001 made in the U S of A superlight and have yet to ride a bike I'd swap it for.

    Struggling to think of a reason to buy anything else – for me it's nigh on perfect 🙂

    stooo
    Free Member

    Right – I've made a decision…. just secured purchase of a second hand 2007 SL frame. Will prob get it re-sprayed after I collect it next week, then built it up as mentioned above.

    Pics to be posted soon 🙂

    bumbly1
    Free Member

    Stoo, just read the thread, a bit late but you are welcome to have a ride on mine, similar to JAD's above. phone me on 07759blah211902 or come on the ride tonight from Newtongrange 🙂

    Tom

    stooo
    Free Member

    Hey Bumbly1

    How's things? You got one of the new SLs now ? Always remember you riding the old shape. Thanks for the offer of a test ride, but after loads of good reports, I decided to go ahead on a second hand one I'd seen… cracking price so if I don't like it, I can get rid. Reckon it'll be good though… it's in the paint shop just now and should be built and ridden by the weekend.

    Where do you go riding form Newtongrange ? I work in Dalkeith … would be easy to pop over that way after work. I'm also living in Innerleithen now, so gimmi a shout if you fancy riding over my way.

    stooo
    Free Member

    Here she is folks – all built up and freshly washed after first ride yesterday

    Build:
    Reba XX 120mm forks and RP23 shock
    Deus cranks and X0 gearing/shifting
    Hope X2 Race brakes
    Burgtech hubs on 517 citrus rims
    Sunline stem, Joplin post, EC90 monkeylite bars
    Nobby nics.

    Fantastic ride… simple, predictable, great handling on flowy singletrack. Climbs really well… it’s not super active at the back, and it really stiffens up when you jump out the saddle and put the power down – but I like that. Very laterally stiff at the back which goes nice with the 20mm axle up front.

    Seems to jump well and enough cush in the back to handle drops if you take them smoothly – not very forgiving if you’re clumsy with line choice. having said that, it’s XC race weight and travel but has real classic trail bike handling.

    Initial test ride was innerleithen red with some steep techy off piste stuff thrown in. Bit sketchy on the really steep stuff, but then that’s expected. Awesome fun on everything else. Love it.

    stooo
    Free Member

    Oh – and colour is RAL 6019 powder coat with metallic flek through it. Done by Pentland Precision Engineering in Edinburgh. I call it Mint-Sparkle.

    Not sure the red cranks work on it, so may change those.

Viewing 40 posts - 1 through 40 (of 46 total)

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