Thought I would try and hammer this out again. I have a ransom with triple ring set up, I use the granny and the middle ring but harldy use the outer ring. I think it is 22/32/44.
Would I really miss the extra gears if I went single and put a 36 on? just like the idea of getting rid of 2 rings, a mech and a shifter and put something like an LG1 on... (I used to run single on a demo 8 and other DH bikes but never on a trail bike)
Would the chainline be ok in top and bottom gear?
Any thoughts or opinions?
Chainline fine but it doesn limit you a bit on big gears, you need a wide ratio rear sprocket and if you use the granny ring a lot maybe consider a 34t.
It is good but I do find myself pushing rather than pushing myself.
I ran my commuter as a 1x9 - no problems with getting all nine gears - for offroad you will need some sort of chain device for sure.
will a 36 ring give you a low enough gear for climbing? It wouldn't for me but big hills and old and unfit = granny gears a must
[url= http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/experiences-from-other-2x9-and-no-bashring-users ]http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/experiences-from-other-2x9-and-no-bashring-users[/url]
im old and have a nackered body so yes I need the granny's
I will check my rear cassette later and post the spec... its just an idea at the moment to save weight and reduce bar clutter.
Clubber - I know I would get on with a 2x9 in theory but that defeats the object for me just loosing 1 chainring
Hijak
Crash did you check that race face cup??
cheers
I run a 1x9 on my Prince Albert. I use it regularly on Surrey Hills and have done Scottish and Welsh trail centres as well as Snowdon on it with no problems.
I have the cable and front mech so if I was ever to go to the peaks or something I'd put that back on.
If you only use the 22 and 32 replacing them with a 36 seems like an odd choice, why not just keep the 32, strip everything apart from the front mech, use it as a chain device with limit screws, and see if you like it for a couple of rides?
No expense, easily reversed but still de-cluttering the bars and losing weight of granny and big ring.
Assuming you can remove big ring without fussing with washers or shorter chainring bolts and stuff.
rudi sorry I will tonight 🙂
I may try a ride and leave it in the middle ring and see how it goes if all is well i will strip the lot off and replace with a chain device!
I run a PA 9 speed as well, with a home made inner plate to keep the chain on.
I use a blackspire blackguard and stinger with a bashguard.
Oh, 32 ring as well. The gear ratio's been fine on steep fast descents - I've used it ona few DH courses with absolutely no problems (part from lack of rider skill obviously).
It's the latest trend for XC racing...
Single 38t ring and a 12-34 cassette. For when there are no steep ups/downs, but there are still ups/downs, if that makes sense. Surrey Hills would be a good example.
GB
i run a 1x9 on my 29er
33t on the front, plus 11-34 on the rear
use fsa bash ring on the outside and an ngear jump stop to keep the chain from coming off - 33t is also a single speed ring with longer teeth also helps to keep chain on (Surly one)
also moved the bottom bracket acorss a little to bring the middle ring towards the bb shell a bit to improve chainline when in big sprockets
if lived in a hilly area would go 2x9 say 29-40 on the front and 11-34 on the rear
My mate runs a single 34T on the front of his Reign and an 11-34T on the back. He says he never misses the granny but sometimes ponders sticking a 36T up front for more speed downhill.
I run 22-32T on the front of my Reign. I <3 my granny ring 🙂
36T up the front with a Gamut chain device. Light, pretty and it works.
I run a 30T up front on my 29er with 11-32 out back
No chain drop devise, just good chainline, short rear cage & chian as short as poss
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<<No chain drop devise, just good chainline, short rear cage & chian as short as poss>>
I found in really rough stuff the chain sometimes came off - only a few times, but spoilt a few runs, I als0 have a good chainline, short rear mech and short chain - might be as i run rigid forks?
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I've got a similar setup to rootes1, above; bashring with an N-Gear Jump Stop. Works pretty well, but want to try an one of the new 1.x guides but CRC keep running out of stock of them in black!
I run a 1x9 set up on both my bikes:
my XC RACE bike has a 37x(11-32) using an E.13 single ring, a MRP 1.x chain guide and a x.9 short cage mech. I also have a 34 and 36 tooth ring which I will put on if the course is really steep.
my TRAIL bike has a 36x(11-34) using an E.13 single ring and an E.13 LG1 + chainguide and a x.9 short cage mech.
both work great; reduced weight, more mud clearance, less chain bounce and a lot quieter are just some of the good things about it
shimano are [url= http://www.bikepacking.net/forum/index.php?topic=203.0 ]rumoured[/url] to have a 12-36 cassette out next year, which will increase the range of gears even more, making a 38t ring feasable for normal riding.
I run a 32 up front and only on steep climbs do I wish for a granny ring (or hammerschmidt thingy), never felt a need for more going down, thats what gravity is for.
Blackspire blackguard with bashring (non ramped chainring as well):
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I added a stinger after riding at Aston Hill, when the chain was slightly slipping on the really rough rooty sections.
With stinger:
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Its actually a really good system - never jumps or skips and is also pretty quiet. My mate has a gamut which is a lot noisier than this.
Having said that though, I didn't get an LG1 because of the price. With the bash, guard, chainring and stinger it all added up to about the same in the end.
First bike I had the 1x9 set-up on the chain never dropped once in two years. This had a 63mm BB shell, and a more in line chain
Latest bike has a 73. I have a Phil BB which allows for sideaways movement so can get the chainring close to the BB, keeping the chain line good. This has stopped the chain dropping - so far