[Closed] Wheelbuilding: Spot the mistake...

Spot the mistake...

It's a 29er wheel? 😛

You've had a shocker there. No knowledge of how it would ride - give it a go and report back?

errmmm - I don't know if its really weaker but I would want to redo it

Sort it out!

Dont like you lot much. Where's Al and his spirit of adventure when you need it.

It looks like you should have gone under in all the places you've gone over too

Ive gone under; over; under when I should have gone under; under; over.

In fact it's just all wrong.

Give it a go.

I read that the UCI were banning 4X.

Can you see the logo on the hub if you look straight through the valve hole?

It might be like an extra dimension of steeringness

Is that a reef knot you've attempted there?

Those crazy snowflake patterns had more severe looking bends in the spokes, and we still rode them.

Did it creak more than you expect to when you tensioned it?

Still, if it was me i would be re-doing it. (With a different hub. I love shimano cup and cone hubs and have a couple that have been going on for evcer, but the two shimano 20mm ones I had were a devil to keep running even with the expensive spanner, and went through bearings like no-ones business.

29er wheel

+1

I'll bet it'll be just fine. Might creak a bit but I doubt it'll break.

How come 2 cross though?

Original at any rate 😉

"How come 2 cross though? "

its 3 cross

It'll be fine and won't make a single bit of difference... it's wheel building not rocket science, and as mentioned above snowflaked wheels hold up fine and they have damn daft bent and twisted spokes. Chalk it up to experience and don't do it again.

See how long it takes for anyone on the trails to notice... I suspect nobody ever will.

Can you see the logo on the hub if you look straight through the valve hole?

I was tripping on phenylephrine but still managed to get the logo lined up with the valve hole. *blows smoke from finger gun*

er.. oh yeah, eyes getting a bit confused...

I did that once, rebuilt the wheel though but only as it offended my sensibilities rather than worrying about how strong it is.

I'm more concerned about my rear wheel which is about 10mm out of dish at the moment though. doesn't foul the frame so haven't done anything yet...

Stoner - Member
I was tripping on phenylephrine but still managed to get the logo lined up with the valve hole. *blows smoke from finger gun*

Really? I would have assumed that the valve hole is opposite the rim sticker, in which case it doesn't look that lined up to me.

but the two shimano 20mm ones I had were a devil to keep running even with the expensive spanner, and went through bearings like no-ones business.

oooh really?
Its been sitting on my desk for over a year. Its to go on my extremely occasional bike so probably be ok. I just got the mega spanner delivered from CRC this morning, hence the build. I stripped the hub and repacked with marine grease and backed it off a smidge as it was far too tight.

WIll see how it lasts. Its really is just a spare 20mm, as I want my Gordo rim on the switchable hub back as a QR to go in the monstercross and this one can go in the rebas.

Really? I would have assumed that the valve hole is opposite the rim sticker, in which case it doesn't look that lined up to me.

I rode one like that for a couple of months.

Took it into bike shop for something else and the owner laughed and asked who'd built the wheel.

He stopped laughing when I told him his shop had.

🙂

(still alive btw)

😆

I couldnt face the shame of being laughed at 🙁

Never built a wheel so don't know but is it because you have the spokes that are on the outside of the hub flange going immediately under the spokes that are off the inside of the hub flange and thus putting more wavyness in them?

There's a mistake? 😳

yep. proper noodly looking.

re the hub

I've had one of those on my main bike (ridden at least once a week) for over 3 years with no problems what so ever.

Re the wheel, i reckon it will be fine and would probably ride it with no concerns

Some people build wheels like that on purpose, in theory they are stiffer as the friction between the spokes is greater - akin to wiring or soldering the spokes. I wouldn't worry about it. I built my last DH wheel like that on purpose to see how it would go, its lasted 10 days in morzine, and 4 other dh uplift days with my heft lending clumsily on it.

It's not right, so just take it apart and put it back together again. That's the price of gaining 'experience' 😉 !

its lasted 10 days in morzine, and 4 other dh uplift days with my heft lending clumsily on it.

so far or entirety?

thats some comfort then toys. ta.

Cant be arsed to rebuild it anyway.

so far or entirety?

Give it a go, I reckon you've already decided too! also film it just incase it's funny 😀

I'm impressed you managed to true the wheel with all that spoke bending! Does the back wheel look the same? Please say no!

I'm surprised the spokes were long enough to get the nipples onto once you got about half-way round lacing it, what with the extra bending and all.

Now you've built it I can't see why there'd be a problem with it on the trail, I'd certainly give it a go if I'd done it.

I'd unlace it and build it properly.

+ 1 schmiken.

Its not right, and with added disk brake forces, you would spend your ride constantly worrying about the potential 'Ostrich strewn burning death'

I don't know why but I have a sudden urge to play this:

[img] [/img]

mangoridebike - Member

re the hub

I've had one of those on my main bike (ridden at least once a week) for over 3 years with no problems what so ever.

mangoride, I must be either cack-handed but extraordinarily lucky with conventional qr shimano hubs which have always been lovely to me, or really really unlucky with the xt and slx ones I had.

Have you had to service yours? The cone/lockring on both mine were both done up 'bastid tight' when I got them (only found this bit out when i tried to service them!) but they ran lovely and smooth at first: both went grumbly after a few months, and despite the enormo spanner and finding a way to immobilise the 'axle' (ie tube) whilst i did the cones up properly (shimano service centres apparently have a nifty but expensive tool for this purpose, bit like an axle vice clamp but 'backwards'), mine both were forever coming loose or tightening up.

I've still got the rumbly xt one lurking in the workshop 'naughty step' if you want a spare.

Could you use an expanding plug like a 'hed doctor' to hold the tune still?

surely you dont need to tighten the cone so much that you need any more than a grippy hand to hold the tube firm? Then on with the lock nut again as tight as you can hand held, before backing the cone into it?

so presuming its been tensioned/stressed youd STILL strip it and rebuild it ....

more chance of failure in my experiance. Changing spoke orientation and cold working of bends ...

a wheel does not become harder to true due to bent spokes nor will it implode and it is not wrong .... it is just unconventional

wheel building is not an exact science its more of an art beyond the very simple assembly stage ....

i have a wheel on my fat bike thats built like an old MG midget wheel with the left hand hub flange laced to the right hand holes on the rim - still going strong and its got more holes drilled in it than a holey thing.......

Andyl, the shimano tool from what i could tell from the interwebz picture was like a hed doctor, you'd need one to fit well in the internal diameter of the 'tube'.

Stoner, I tried that too but somehow the cone kept either loosening or tightening itself after a few rides. I think it is hard to stop the tube 'following' the cone as you back it off against the outer locknut and so you don't get a good enough grip between cone and locknut. I was baffled by how this resulted in the hub tightening itself though as its a normal thread on the right hand side, the axle trying to follow the rest of the hub as it turns forward should loosen itself against the cone and locknut not tighten. One of my 2 still managed to though!

The best I managed minus a suitably sized expander wedge was to cut a 2mm wide by 3mm deep slot across the outer opening of the disc side of the 'tube'axle, and then balance it on an old steel ruler held in a vice. There was plenty of 'tube' left to butt up against the inside of the fork dropout to secure the hub, and you could get the tube to stay still whilst you adjusted the cones.